CAPRI RS 2.0i PROJECT

[capri v8 driver]

Its the ignition switch it self that cant handle the load. I already mentioned that before.

To solve that I use a normal relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. It only takes a small a mouth to trigger a relay. The relay takes the big current to energize the starter relay.

For that reason alone I always build the efi system as a stand alone system and is directly connected to the battery. There will only 1 switched feed, coming from the ignition switch to trigger the system.

This way you only have a small load on the ignition switch.

[c.a.p.r.i]

Thanks, i figured that the fault must lie with the ignition switch and would appreciate a circuit diagram and the type of relay required for this modification. c.a.p.r.i@hotmail.co.uk

Only once the engine has warmed up it will fire up first time on the key every time as it should.

[capri v8 driver]

Only once the engine has warmed up it will fire up first time on the key every time as it should.

Thats because a warm engine needs less power of the starter to turn over.

Here is a pic about how to wire a relay between the starter solenoid and the ignition.



As you can see the current from battery now goes directly to the relay and than to the solenoid instead over the ignition switch. The ignition is now only used to trigger the relay and that's only a 0.5 amps. The solenoid coil typically draws 8 to 10 amps during engine cranking. The relay now switches the bigger current for the solenoid.

Its a very simple modification that's saves the ignition switch from high loads during starting and gives to solenoid more power to work because there is no resistance anymore from the ignition switch, connectors and the wiring. 

[c.a.p.r.i]

Being a fully qualified mechanic i'm well aware that an engine that has had time to operate at normal temperature will draw less current from the battery to turn it over however, thanks for the help i really appreciate it.
As soon as i get time to carry out this modification i will let you know.

Many thanks.

[c.a.p.r.i]

The problem did prove to be the load on the ignition switch, having added a relay between the solenoid solved the problem and the power to the ECU is now constant thus now creating a regular spark when the engine is cranking. Its strange that having done this conversion to various other ford's why is it that mine refused to work?
Although, the only issue I have now is that the engine turns, receives a good spark and refuses to fire up, I suspect there is an issue with either the fuel filter (which is not old) or air flow meter.
The timing has not been adjusted and I will be making further investigations as soon as the weather improves. 

[capri v8 driver]

Its strange that having done this conversion to various other ford's why is it that mine refused to work?

I have seen this problem with several conversions and that's why I came up with a relay between the starter and the ignition switch. Most likely cause is a higher combined resistance of the switch, connectors and the wires.   

[c.a.p.r.i]

Possibly, just fitted a new set of spark plugs which didn't resolve the problem, the old ones weren't old and were wet which tells me fuel is getting in. Everything on the engine is new...Ignition Coil, Spark Plugs, Rotor Arm, Distributor Cap, Plug Leads, Ignition Amplifier, Idle Control Valve/Sensor, Starter Motor, Battery. The engine is fully reconditioned and does run

I doubt very much it will be the fuel filter as all 4 injectors are squirting fuel healthfully and the timing was set accurately, the belt hasn't slipped a tooth either. I have the original Blue Point diagnostics scanner for the EEC4 ECU which doesn't display any faults.
Upgrading to a 2.0 pinto E.F.I on my car has been a fucking mission, it's only four wires to connect into the original loom!

[c.a.p.r.i]

After much contemplation all afternoon i assume the fault must lie within the red bulkhead plug and socket, this carries the main power supply to the ignition switch. The terminals within the molded plug could well be week impeding the flow of electrons effectively. Should the original stereo be turned on and off whilst the ignition key is in position 2 the fuel pump primes the injector rail indicating a a demand in voltage on the circuit. Also, Despite their being a brand new battery fitted, the starter does struggle to turn over after a few cranks. Therefore, i shall temporarily bypass the main feed by running a fresh new feed directly from the battery to the ignition switch.
*This theory could well be the route cause of all this aggravation as this engine always fired up first time on the key when i installed it years ago, wires and connections do break down over time.*

[capri v8 driver]

I have the original Blue Point diagnostics scanner for the EEC4 ECU which doesn't display any faults.
Upgrading to a 2.0 pinto E.F.I on my car has been a fucking mission, it's only four wires to connect into the original loom!

You have fuel. Check for spark and the timing first. A faulty Van type meter could be a problem but it would start and still run.

Witch ignition module do you use? There is a version that needs a 2e feed during starting and it gets its feed from the ignition switch. if it doesn't get a decent  voltage, it doesn't start. You could bypass this with the same relay you use for the starter. 

[c.a.p.r.i]

The ignition module is brand new and is the correct type (15311), I did suspect the air flow meter but can't be the cause as I have two which work perfectly. This leads me to believe the fault could well be within the red bulkhead plug and socket as it did run properly before all this unnecessary grief kicked in.

[capri v8 driver]

That ignition module is listed as a intermotor number for a Ford Scorpio MK II Estate 2.0 I 1994 to 1998. It should have a 6 pins connector and that one has a separated feed when starting.



The bottom one is the one used on the 2.0 ohc efi. Sometime there is a big motocraft ignition module as used on the carbed v6 models.

However, your module should be able to work.

[c.a.p.r.i]

Both the wiring loom and engine were removed from a 1989 Granada by myself a few years ago, the ignition module is Intermotor and i have a few of them that work, there is no secondary module present that works in conjunction with 15311

I have since bought some wire to replace the feed to the ignition switch and as soon as the weather improves will continue. 

[c.a.p.r.i]

VICTORY!

After much contemplation it was apparent the fault lied within the feed to the ignition switch, the engine now fires up first time as it should. It was suggested a relay be placed in conjunction within the starter circuit, this has since been removed and all the wiring is back to standard. A qualified Mechanic/welder & Auto Electrician = the perfect classic car enthusiast.
All I can assume is that the wire gradually broke down during the 30 years of it's life.

[bigro007]

Great thread.

I'm planning on carrying out an Efi conversion to my lads 2.0s and also have a BOA in my other Capri which has recently been fitted with an Emerald K6. Both bare shell rebuilds.

Will give you a shout re the pinto as there are some bits I still need to complete the kit I will need but have most of it. Need ECU, loom etc

My pinto crossmember is with Tickover at the moment being modified for power steering.
Oh that is a capri that i would love to buy lol
bigro007


Have everything for that except the high pressure hose.

[c.a.p.r.i]

Plenty of spares for pinto engines although, i do recondition them for customers restoration projects.
If you happen to have any old pinto's do let me know.