My ford 20M hardtop coupe project.

[capri v8 driver]

Some people know my daily driven '71 Ford 20M hardtop coupe.



Its not the greatest looking car and even with the 2.8 v6 its not very fast. Yes it has a heather inside but don't expect much warm air either. Yes it has lights but I am afraid to drive it at night because there isn't really much light coming from the head lights. Even the sigaret lighter failed on me. And the list goes on. Still it only let me down one time and that was last week.

And I really hated that. Its 46 years old and it really needs some love. So what's the plan? I could throw a cossy v6 or a v8 in there and call it a day. But I'm a difficult guy witch don't like doing things the easy way and I have even more strange and crazy idea's.

Everyone likes the duratec v6 engines but that is not a easy task even with a aftermarked ecu and sinds it is a 46 year old car the rest of the car like the electrics and heating are 46 years old.

My plan: buy a jag s type take what I need out of the car and re-use it in the 20m. This means the engine, gearbox but also the electrics with the GEMs, the heather, power steering, brakes ect. so I have everything of the jag but in the 20m.

No one has don it before as far as I know and the jaguar people and also the jaguar dealer already declared me mentally insane so did my doctor.

lets start!!!!


Here is the old engine.



And poeff is gone....



It took me some more time to remove the wiring steering the battery tray and brake booster. Everything is out of the engine bay = more space.

Here is the new engine



And here are the loom and everything else that must go in to the 20m.

The wiring only for the dash



This goes all the way to the rear of the car



This is the engine loom. Well a part of it.



There is also a wiring loom for the lights the front fuses box ect.

A lot of wires.

Now you would say its a big engine bay and its a lot bigger than a capri engine bay. Removing the  old engine was a breeze and it was done with a cup of coffee in less than a hour. Just getting the jag engine in to the engine bay took me 3 hours. The engine it self is not so big but trying to fit a complete engine with the gearbox and intake at ones was not that easy. But its in.







Today I removed everything under the dash. Tomorrow I will start with the heater. You are wondering way I would start with the heather. Well its big to and I need to know where the coolant and the aircon pipes come out of the firewall and if I have enough space. But that's for tomorrow.

I will add pictures as the work progresses.

[mk2 cossie]

Very nice indeed Paul 
I shall watch with interest 

[capri v8 driver]

Yesterday I fitted the heater/air con unit. After some cutting its was in. There isn't much room so I still have to figure out where to place the blower.



Now its clear where the water and air con line come out of the fire wall.





Now I know where the lines come out its time to start positioning the gearbox and the engine. And yes, space, even the car is very big, there is surprisingly not much space for the gearbox or even the drive shaft.

Now where is my trusty angle grinder? Never mind, I found it. 

 



And than I found a very big problem. The old engine and gearbox where mounted in a off set configuration. Its 50 mm off center to the passenger side. I can only imagining that Ford has done this to clear the big steering box and line the gearbox up in line with the rear axle flange. Now it has bin done before but I never seen it by 50 mm. I have to take a night of sleep over it.

Tomorrow I gone cut the front beam up to make more room for the engine so I can put it lower in the car.

[capri v8 driver]

Dead or alive wanted: powersteering pump 24v with the evo valve!!!!!

I'am looking for a powersteering pump from a 24v with the evo valve.

Just the evo valve with the holder for the line is also good.

All the steering racks with a evo valve are much to big to fit correctly to keep the bump steer out of the front suspension. Sinds the 24 BOA or BOB powersteering pumps comes with a EVO valve, I am after the powersteering pump 24v with the evo valve!!!!!

Just the evo valve with the holder for the line is also good. 

EDIT: Its solved.

The powersterring pump of a Ford 4.6 thunderbird has a evo valve. I found out that its almost a direct fit to the Jaguar engine. Only difference is the bushes are the other way around so I need to drill them out and correct it and the output line is on the under side of the pump instead of the side. A other problem solved. This way I am free to use a smaller normal power steering rack like a fiesta one.

[capri v8 driver]

Yesterday I finished the gearbox mount. I reused part of the old gearbox mount and the jaguar mount.



Here you see how close everting is underneath the car.



Now it was time to finish the engine mounts the front beam and the steering rack. How ever like always when you stuff a big engine in a small engine bay there will be problems.

Here is the first problem:



The jaguar engine mount is a combination of the mount, the oil cooler and the oil filter and it interferes with the steering rack. So the oil filter and oil cooler have to move.  But that's for a new day.

 

[capri v8 driver]

Today I tackled the oil filter/cooler.

A bid of searching for a remote oil filter for these engines turn up nothing. Now I could get the easy way out and mount the oil filter where the mount was but that would mean I have no space for the engine mount. What next? Well I build my one remote oil filter/cooler.

Lets start cutting....





The hardest part was to make the openings square so the 18 x 15 to AN-8 adaptors can seal properly. 



With the AN-6 adaptors. They are used for demonstration. They will be replaced by 2 90 degrees AN-8 adaptors.





Lets fit the modified engine mount/ remote adaptor to the engine. It fits very nice and a lote more room. 



Tomorrow I try to start with the front beam, lower arms and the steering rack and steering column. I think this will be the hardest part of the build as this will be a mix and match with the 20M parts together with a ford puma steering rack and the Jaguar steering column.

I will keep you updated as I go along.

[capri v8 driver]

The front beam and steering rack. Cutting stuf up is a easy thing to do. getting everything back in place is not as easy. It takes a lot of measuring to getting the steering rack and the mount back in position.

But the steering rack is in place.





I fitted the steering rod from a puma and its a bit to long by 40 mm. It still needs some modifications but its very close



The steering shaft. Here I got pretty luck as the jaguar steering shaft fits the puma steering rack and it clear the block. It still needs some fiddling.

[capri v8 driver]

I left you hanging. I know that's not so nice of me. 

The front beam and the controle arms are starting to get a nightmare. The jag engine has a deeper sump so that means I need to cut the front beam to make space for the sump.




However this makes the beam very weak, so I welded a 40 mm square 3 mm wall pipe underneath it witch also doubles for the mouthing points for the steering rack.



To correct the angles of the control arm, I needed to shorten them and this also means I need to make new mounts for the shortened control arms.



The original control arms themselves.



As you can see the almost 50 years does have some serieus rust between the welded side plates. You cant get new ones so I have to make new ones or fix the old ones. It does give me the chances to improve the front suspension by detach the stabilizer bar that holds the control arm in place and to create a A arm. This would get rid of the bind caused by the uneven turning points of the suspension.

Here is my new front brake disk compared with the old brake disk.



More next week.

[bigro007]

Today I tackled the oil filter/cooler.

A bid of searching for a remote oil filter for these engines turn up nothing. Now I could get the easy way out and mount the oil filter where the mount was but that would mean I have no space for the engine mount. What next? Well I build my one remote oil filter/cooler.

Lets start cutting....







The hardest part was to make the openings square so the 18 x 15 to AN-8 adaptors can seal properly. 



With the AN-6 adaptors. They are used for demonstration. They will be replaced by 2 90 degrees AN-8 adaptors.





Lets fit the modified engine mount/ remote adaptor to the engine. It fits very nice and a lote more room. 



Tomorrow I try to start with the front beam, lower arms and the steering rack and steering column. I think this will be the hardest part of the build as this will be a mix and match with the 20M parts together with a ford puma steering rack and the Jaguar steering column.

I will keep you updated as I go along.

Hi paul
there is a man on facebook who is doing a ecoboost capri just type in ecoboost capri and its a 1976 capri if your guy on the forum are interested to look it up it a left hand drive so it will be interested to see how this will turn out
bigro007

[capri v8 driver]

I like the capri ecoboost project. He is running into the same problems as me.

[bigro007]

I like the capri ecoboost project. He is running into the same problems as me.

Hi paul
yes if I understand are you doing an ecoboost capri too well the man live in the us in long island

bigro 007

[capri v8 driver]

My car is a 20M not a capri and the engine is a Jaguar duratec engine not a ecoboost.

But the engines are basically the same except for the direct injection and the turbos.

[bigro007]

Hi paul
yes I have seen on the photo so how is your project is coming along?
me I have started to work light is at the end of the tunnel for me lol

bigro007

[capri v8 driver]

yes I have seen on the photo so how is your project is coming along?

I am just started the project. There is a lot to do. The front suspension and brakes is a mess and needs to be addressed first. That's where I'm working on right now.

[bigro007]

oh good
it sound a very interesting project keep up the good work
bigro007

[capri v8 driver]

A new day and yess I got back at it.

First thing I did was to remove the complet front suspension. Than I started on the brakes, the ABS rings and the control arms.

lets start with the ABS rings. Remember the old disks? Well I needed to fabricate a spacer for the abs ring and the hubs.













Than I started with the control arms.

Here you can see the new control arm eyes and the bushings. They are from a fiesta and the bigger one is from a taunus III. These are more common as the old 20M rubber bushing are hard te get and $$$$.



There was some rust between the plates on the control arms so I drilled the spot welds out, cleaned it up and replaced the old metal side plates for both arms. I shorthand the arms at the same time and welded the new rings for the bushings in place. After that was done I boxed the control arms with 2 mm sheet metal. This will make the arms much more rigid.





This is the old ball joint. Can you see what's wrong with it?





I cant explain this damage. Even the control arm it self has damage. Looks like the car fell off a axle stand or something.









Just some welding and grinding and they will be ready for the next step. I will modify the control arm and the stabilizer with the mountings in the same centerline. Its a culprit for all old European Ford's from the '60 '70 and '80. This modification will provide a stable caster and more important, less bind of the control arm/stabilizer so the suspension will move more freely (except for the resistance of the rubber bushings).

I will not fabricate a A arm like I mentioned earlier. The reason is space. There is not enough space between the frames and the exhaust to create a mounting point for the A arm. But since I modified the control arms and the mounting point I did the same with the mounting points of the stabilizer so they are now in line with each other.

[capri v8 driver]

Yes I admit, I was lazy this week but it was so hot out site. Stil I did do some work.

First, since I finished the cross member I made new engine mounts. But I forgot the take pictures. Then I extended the stabilizer bar mount so it now in line with the turning point of the control arms. Its made out of 2 mm steel plate and 2 steel bushes inside. 







The front brakes and the ABS sensor mounts are next.















If you wonder what brakes they are. They are from a 2010 Mercedes E200. the disk are 295mm and the calipers have a 60 mm piston. If they can stop a 1800 kg car they are more than enough for a 1200 kg car. One big plus, the Mercedes disk and caliper are lighter that the ford 240 solid disk and caliper they replace. Less weight is always good.

More next week. It should get cooler now.

[capri v8 driver]

A other week but there isn't much done to be honest because of other things I needed to sort out.

I did some rust repair in the engine bay. The last owner just used some glue, sheet metal and bondo to cover the rust. I did not take pictures of the rust repair because I forgot that. I also made the gearbox tunnel wider and higher for the gearbox and welded everything back in place.

Then I started with the steering column and the brake booster. I know what your thinking. Why? It already had a steering column and a brake booster. With the bigger brakes and the ABS system you want a decent brake booster and the JAG had a electric adjustable steering column. Just for a bit of comfort. 

Some cutting, grinding and welding and this is the result:

 







If you are wondering what brand the brake booster is. It's from a Audi A4. It has a double membrane and has a 25.4 mm master cylinder. Its 26 cm wide. The jag one was 32 cm. I do need to make the reservoir remote as there is not enough room.   



As you can see there isn't much room for the booster.



Fitted the Jag's steering column.

[T4T]

You certainly like a challenge don't you !

Nice work .

Matt

[capri v8 driver]

And it looks photobucket want me to pay to entertain you. And that's not gone happen.

You certainly like a challenge don't you !

Nice work .

Matt

It starts to get a real challenge now. Its has more to do with the lack of time.

I will start to get the images back first.

[capri v8 driver]

The pictures are back up.

I used Imgur.

If you do use Imgur a small tutorial.

Hit the image button in the tool section. Copy the direct link between the {img] [/img] and add h.jpg

Direct link: http://imgur.com/MDSoCRr

With the addition: http://imgur.com/MDSoCRrh.jpg

The h is for the size and .jpg is to make it visible as a picture.

[capri v8 driver]

I still had a few pictures left on the phone.

These are from last week. Its the steering rod to the column. I also re-used the jag's steering rod bearing for beter support.

[capri v8 driver]

I did some more work on the 20M.

First I took the front shocks apart. Yes with this car just like the first capri's you can take the shocks apart, clean them and replace the oil. After that I put longer studs in the hubs and made the steering arms shorter and painted the parts of the front suspenspion and put it all back in the car.









I also put the front brakes on.





Next the radiator or beter said the radiators as the Jag has 4 radiators. To get only the Scorpio radiator in took some cutting. With 4 radiators it took even more cutting and welding. But they are in. I also had to fabricate a new fan as the Scorpio ones where to big. I used a focus 2.0l fan and made it longer so it would cover the entire radiator.





You can see how tight everything is and I still need to add the loom, fuse box expansion tank and the ABS in the engine room.

Now I am working on the heather system. Same problem here, space or beter the lack of it. I will keep you posted.

[capri v8 driver]

A few pictures.

Working under a dash is always  But I have to get the Jag's heater and airco unit in and that isn't easy if you don't have the space.

They main unit was already in but I had to re position it to make room for the air intake and to close the original hole and make a new air intake.





I als added some sound deading stuff behind the unit. Because ones the unit is in you cant get behind it.



Now its time to tackel the front part of the unit. Biggest problem, the defrost is in front with the Jag's system but I don't have space there because my wipers live there and they refuse to move out of the way. The solution:







Now the defrost openings are to the side just like original. Now the 20M has 4 defrost, 2 for the front window from the heather and 2 separate for the side windows however they are not connected to the heather but to the outside air. You can imaging in the winter with freezing temps, the car will not heat up as you have cold air coming in. It even lets some water in. Not good. That's history now. I will use 2 Y pipes and split the defrost for all 4 openings. 

Last thing to do for the heather/airco system is the air intake and the motor. Now original the car does not have a way to draw the air from inside the cabine like the Jag and other modern cars have it. The jags fan is also very big so I need to fabricate something to solve it. That's for next week.

[capri v8 driver]

Part 2 of the heather and airco system. The fan motor and the air intakes.

The Jags fan motor housing is very big and will not fit. So I cut it up and als made a new air intake that can draw air from the out site and the inside.





















The heather / airco system is finisht. I just need to connect it to the air outlets.

I also found some time to build a new drive shaft.

[capri v8 driver]

A bid of a set back, the rear axle. After all those years the bearings need to be replaced and the gear ratio is a bid off from what I need. However the bearings and gears are rare and $$$.





Don't think this 20M axle is a modified capri axle. There are some differences. The first is it has 5 lugs.

The axle is wider and measures 1467 mm. Its 16.7 mm wider than a capri 3 axle and 66.7 mm wider than a capri 1 axle. The bearings are bigger to.

A few pictures of the differences:



Here you clearly can see the length difference. On the left is the 20M inner axle next is the capri 3 inner axle and on the right a capri mk1 inner axle.



Bearing sizes differ as well.



The 20M bearings is very hard to get because of the rare size and is out of production for 20 years. So what's left is old stock and expect to pay 130 euro's ( 110 pounds) for just 1 bearing. Than you still need a seal and the press on ring.

Edit: I will give you the bearing sizes and the length of the inner axles.

Capri mk1: bearing size: 62 x 31 x 20 inner axle length: 682mm Total axle width flange to flange 1400 mm.

capri mk 3 : 67 x 31 x 24 inner axle length :708 mm. Total axle width flange to flange 1450 mm.

Taunus 20M: 80 x 38.9 x 25 inner axle length: 725 mm. Total axle width flange to flange 1467 mm.

The thinnest point on all 3 axles is 22 mm.

Next week I will take a look at a Volvo axle.

2e set back the fuel tank. After removing the cover plate I found the tank with a big dent. Than I found out that some one modified the tank and pored tank sealer in the tank witch is now letting go.







So extra work to fix this problems. You can still find a fuel tank (at a high price. What's new here?) but I gone try to get the dent out of the tank and clean the inside and re coat it again.

[cossiemk2]

 They are still available new online.

Brand: SKF
Model: 361070B
Dimensions: (38,89 X 80 X 25)
Compatible with: 515866A (FAG)

Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-TAUNUS-17-20-361070-Rear-Sealed-bearing-Size-39mm-x-80mm-x-25mm-/311049351633

But I have found several bearing supliers that have them in stock.

[capri v8 driver]

Amir is from Israel and only sells a bearing and you have to add import tax and BTW on his price. You also need the steel press ring and seal and they don't sell that. Only motomobile sells it. 

Edit:

I looked at several Volvo axles today. The Volvo 200 series are 1395 mm wide measured flange to flange for both the 1030 and 1031 axle. The 700 series (1031 axle) are 1500 mm wide. The 900 series, this depend on witch axle you get, some early models have a 1031 axle and there is a 1041 axle witch has a G80 LSD. 

And yes I bought a 740 axle. Pictures will follow.

[capri v8 driver]

Its bin a while but there is a new update.

The rear axle. I bought a Volvo rear axle. its from a 740 with a 3.73 ratio. Yes I said did not like the ratio but after some calculations I don't lose much of the top speed and I gain some acceleration.

First I striped and cleaned the axle and it was in pretty good shape. Than I cut the perches of the old axle and welded it to the Volvo axle.



Than I started with the brakes. I used Volvo disk and scorpio brake calipers.











And than I hit a small problem. The Volvo axle has a 5 x 108 pattern and I need 5 x 112. And sadly there wasn't enough meat on the axle flange as you can see in the next pictures.





With only 1.5 mm of metal around the stud I found it to weak. Now I could start welding that big hole shut and move the studs I was not very happy with that idea. So I thought of a other solution.

Some spare scorpio rear hubs and some time behind the lathe and here it is.







I was lucky I did not needed to re-drill or modify anything. It fitted perfectly. I also had to think of a solution for the ABS rings and this is what I came up with:



Now I just have to make brackets for the ABS sensor and press on the bearings and I put it all back in the car. But that's for the next update.

Compare the inner axles. On the left is the Volvo axle.





The Volvo axle is almost twice as thick and is a way stronger axle.

Parts for this axle are way cheaper and more available because its dana 30 design. The downside, the Volvo 700/900 series is 30mm wider than a 20m axle.

I did not take pictures of the mangled up fuel tank but I do have a top tip if you have a fuel tank like mine that's coated inside and its letting go. I got the old coating out thanks to Tank Cure. I had my doubts about it as the old expo coating would not even resolve in acetone but there stuff worked great. I cleaned the tank and got most of the dents out and re-coated it again.   

Till the next update.

[mk2 cossie]

very nice Paul 

Liking the re-purposed Scorpio hubs as the hub adapter, very inventive