My ford 20M hardtop coupe project.

[capri v8 driver]

You need to be a little inventive wen you are working on these old cars.  but working out ideas to a usable part of solution is so time consuming 

Today I put the axle and the brakes back together and build a pan hard bar and mount and removed the rear springs for inspection and new bushings.

I just need to go to the breakers for a few ABS sensor to finish the axle. Once that's done I have to put the exhaust back under the car and modify the drive shaft (again) and build a new hand brake.

If that's done I can finally start with the wiring and pluming of the water, brake and fuel lines and with some luck the engine should run.   

[capri v8 driver]

As said I it yesterday I put the axle back together and today I made the mounts for the ABS sensors. I went for the jaguar S type ABS sensors.







With a older car its always a goo idea to replace all the rubber bushings. Here a few pictures why:







The bushings in the rear springs where very lose so I took them out by just pushing with my fingers. No press needed. The old worn bushings where 4 tot 5 mm thinner than the new ones. The bushings in the frame where not much beter. The bushings in the reaction arms where completely gone. The last owner (or the owner before him) used silicone kit to fill the gap of the bushings. Its so ridiculous but the complet car is like this. Or beter said : was like this because now everything is and will be replaced and repaired. Technical no screw of any parts will be untouched and there will be only a few parts that will be re-used. Everything else is now replaced. Even the bolds and nuts that holds everything together are replaced.

Tomorrow I will put the rear suspension back in the car. Than I hope to finish the drive shaft, the handbrake and the exhaust this weekend.

After that I can start put the electrics, water, brake and fuel lines in the car.

If you are wondering if I gone do something to the sheet metal  and paint of the Taunus, the answer is no. I leave it as it is for now except for the scoop on the bonnet. That will gone. 

[capri v8 driver]

The axle and the pan hard bar are now in the car. Just have to put oil in the axle.

I also found some time to modify the drive shaft and mount it. Tomorrow I will do the hand brake mechanisme and the cable and with some luck the exhaust.

[capri v8 driver]

A very small update.

The hand brake is in the car. So is most of the water, brake and fuel and oil lines. Space or the lack of it is again my biggest problem. I still have to find some space for the ABS unit and the front fuse box and the windshield wiper water tank.

I also made a new exhaust for the car.



The dampers are from a Volvo 740. These are a bid bigger than the Taunus dampers so I hope it makes less noise.

I also got most of the dents out of the fuel tank. The biggest problem here was that I don't have the right tools to fix the dents in a fuel tank but its usable again. I also cleaned and re-sealt the tank and made a new drain point for the pump. For the fuel pump I gone use a Mercedes SL 500 pump and filter.



The next problem, the fuel level sensor. The old one had different values so I had the re-use the Jaguar sensor.



Tomorrow I will start on the front stabilizer as I'm not happy the way its now. When that's done I can start on the electrics.

[capri v8 driver]

Don't think because its quit in this topic nothing got done.

The fuel system is done. in the pictures you can see the big fuel filter and the pump. They are from a Mercedes 500 sl. The fuel filter acts also as a swirlpot is about 750 cc and because the jag uses a returnless fuel system I did not needed to go big. 







The last 2 weeks I spend on making extensions for the swaybar because as I said earlier I wasn't really happy with lowering the swaybar. But this turned into a nightmare. I made the extensions from springsteel same as the stabilizer. I found out first hand that spring steel is very hard but flexible so turning it on a lathe or making treads was a nightmare. I consulted a few specialized metal firm and except one firm no one could do it. And the firm that could do it gave me a quote that was so high..................... I just bought the drill and taps and dye plates to make it make it myself .

Those pictures will follow.

[capri v8 driver]

I promised more pictures.

The new extension made out of springsteel for the stabilizer and the stabilizer mount.





I also found some space for the ABS unit the airco dryer and the front fuse box. Figuring out where witch brake pipe goes on the ABS unit cost more time then installing it.



I made some center rings because I did not like it that the only way to center the wheel and brake disk was only the studs . Now it centers on the studs and on the center ring.



Now its time to start with the wiring and there is a lot of it.







And with the jag wiring comes new buttons and other parts that need to find a home. I think this will be the most time consuming. But the light switch and the GEM and fuse box and the electrics of the steering column are in the right spots.

[T4T]

Nice work Paul !

When do you think it will be driving ?

Matt

[capri v8 driver]

Hello Matt,

I hope to have most of the electrics working and the engine running within 2 weeks.

[capri v8 driver]

A small update. Most of the engine wiring and the dash wiring is in the car.

However for the moment i have to stop due a house fire witch burned my house down to the ground. For that reason i will be less active on this forum the upcoming weeks till i got setteld again and have sorted all the problems.   

Not a nice picture:



I hope you never have to experience this. Or the aftermatt of a house fire.

[T4T]

Sorry to hear that . Home is more important !!

Wishing you well .

Matt

[capri v8 driver]

A home is maybe one of the most important thing in your live. The fire and the aftermath is very time consuming and cost me and my parents a lot of money and its not over yet.

How ever i did found some time to do some work on the 20M. After weeks of doing nothing to the car or in the garage i found a small wet spot under the car.

 

A small crack in the thermostat housing. Finding one on ebay was not the problem however ebay did not changed my address so it got lost to turn up a few weeks later.

I also complained about the lights or beter said the lack of lights. Well i solved it this way:



The for and after modification to get modern bulbs in the housing. I did the same with the blinkers.



The original 20m headlights where rubbish but instead of just putting beter lightbulbs in the i discard them. They found a nice place in the bin.

The RS version uses the same lights as a capri. Just have the find the 20M RS light and they are rare and expensive. A used set is around 600 euro's. How ever i solved it with replica RS bezels, a set of BMW 5 serie lights, a servo for the height adjustment from the jag and modded the hell out of the 20M light frame. This is the result:









I also rebuild the horns as they where falling apart and gave them a nice place behind the grill and made a provision for the fog lights.

Now i'm working on the electrics to get her running again. I was hoping to hear her run this year but with a few hours to go for the new year thats not gone happen. Its no joy if the diagrams jaguar provided have some faults witch cost me a lote of time to find out and correct them. A new year so new chances.

See you in 2018. Have a good one.

[bigro007]

Hi paul
hopefully your back into a house i wish you a merry christmas and happy new year well don job on that 20m i enjoy reading about it now i have been working myself and i think im out of trouble with the gov soon and i will be returning to my capri taurus and tvr project lol
so hopefully think are turning good for you with the house and hopefully nobody got hurt in it

andre

[gabriel]

Hello
well it makes work! getting started for when?

[capri v8 driver]

I worked on it everyday for a few hours a day the last week. The first time i put power on the system everything lit up and was doing crazy things. That cost me 4 days as i checked every wire relais ect to find out why this was happening. It turns out that if the battery isn't full but below 12 volts the ecu's go crazy. I put a big charged battery in the boot and most things where working normally. Than I had one fault that cost a few days to figure out. First i thought i made a wiring fault but it turned out the throttle body blade and thereby the motor where stuck causing a very loud rattle I could not find at first. I took the throttle housing and engine apart and gave it a good clean so now that problem is solved as well.

Most electrics are working except the starting system and I accidently broke a small water pipe underneath the throttle housing. I will try to fix that next week and fingers crossed it will run. If I have some time that is because I also need to spend a lot of time on the burned down house and the aftermath of that.

Hi paul
hopefully your back into a house i wish you a merry christmas and happy new year well don job on that 20m i enjoy reading about it now i have been working myself and i think im out of trouble with the gov soon and i will be returning to my capri taurus and tvr project lol
so hopefully think are turning good for you with the house and hopefully nobody got hurt in it

andre

No one get hurt except for some bruses small cuts and smoke inhalation. I even managed to save my mothers bird out of the burning house and started or beter said tried to combat the fire with a garden hose and a few fire extinguishers.

I can now tell you from experience that doesn't work. I hope you never have to experience a house fire but if you ever get confronted with a fire in your house just get your self and other persons out fast. Very fast. I was shocked to see how fast the smoke and fire goes true a house. Its not like in a movie where the stars have all time in the world walking in and out the burning building.   

[gabriel]

Hello
I can not wait to see that I will follow your post loan!

[capri v8 driver]

A very small update but a big one: ITS ALIVE. 

I fixed the broken water pipe witch is only used for bleeding the cooling system and the starting system witch turned out a out of range transmissinion sensor because it was out of allinement. The fuel pump relais also had a isue because i disconnected the earth wire and forgot the connect it again . After all was fixed, first try its started right up and stayed running nicely.

Thats a big releave as the experts at Jaguar said it would never run again on its own ecu and electrics if you swap in to a other car with a cut loom.

There is still a ton to do but hearing it run gives me after working on it for 7 months new energie to keep working on it.

   

[Dave2302]

Hi Paul,

I'm so sorry to see that House fire pic, but thank god no one was hurt or worse 

A House is the most important thing in most peoples life, but, like a Car, House can eventually be replaced with a lot of up-heaval, family and people cannot.

Nice to see the Car is running again, I must try and keep getting on here, it may push me into getting the Puma up and running again

Well, when I've finished my Mercedes resurrection project lol..................
A facelift W220 S500, 34000 miles, stood in a barn for 6 years as no one local could get it running, it is a rolling computer network, waaaay ahead of it's time, puts the latest of Car models to shame !!
I bought it for pennies, to practice with my (new then) MB Star Diagnostic machine, because the Star is much more complex than most Manufacturer Machines and no way intuitive !!

When I got it running, I found it only had a genuine 34000 miles, and it flew through an MOT, so I drove it for 3 months and fell in love with it
I then decided to do a "concourse restoration" and keep it until DVLA eventually take my licence off me 

It only needs some time consuming cosmetic paintwork now.
All the Electronics are sorted, and the underside finished, it has been totally stripped and undersealed, plus loads of new bits to keep our Scottish Salt at bay in the future

I also have a full Android multi media system, including headrests with monitors to install, lol that will take a week to do, will have to strip out seats and carpets to run all the cables in the factory cable trays.
Then I'll have to figure out how to get it all configured on the CAN Bus

Once it's Painted and back on the road then later on maybe a Supercharged 5.4L V8 Transplant as I have all the parts in a good running CL55 write off, but tbh it is more than quick enough with the N/A V8 that's in it, and I fitted a Kleeman Exhaust System which sounds awesome, but can't hardly hear it in the Car when driving........... Perfect 

Cheers for now,

Dave

[capri v8 driver]

A facelift W220 S500, 34000 miles, stood in a barn for 6 years as no one local could get it running, it is a rolling computer network, waaaay ahead of it's time, puts the latest of Car models to shame !!

Don't under estimate a S type jag or any jag after 2000. They all are a rolling computer network. These jags where a testcase for all later Ford that use the same SCP and Can systems and wiring system.

As you can see in the pictures I started with a few pieces of the jags wiring as the wiring loom was cut at several places and was missing. After almost a year I have wired everything up except the airbags and the seat motors and controls as I'm not using them. The last piece of wiring was the doors as they also have there own computer module.

Even the doorlocks from the jag are crafted in the Taunus doors.

The old and new lock:



This means cutting the doors up to make the new bigger looks fit.











Off course there is rust. A small spot turned into this:



Its the same on the other side.

And a few more rust spots:





Not clearly visible but those corners arent welded to the wheel tube or the rocker. The factory just used some sealer. To add strengt I welded to the wheel tube and rocker.

Its not the end of the rust story. The pervious owner just used a few spotwelds sealer and bondo to hold the rockers in place so they will be replaced same as the wheel arches.

More pictures to come.

[capri v8 driver]

A little update.

I did told you I found a few rust spots. Lets tell and show you a horror story.

In a time not so long ago I found a few rust spots on the rocker and A pillar and the rear fender......................



Istarted to pook around at the rear fender and it was just holding on by a few spot welds witch did not hold and a lot of bondo.















Did i mention the rocker? It was only hold together with a few weld spot and sealer. Its done so poorly i could rip it off by hand.



And when the rocker is removed you find.......... a second rocker. I did not know it but the P7 coupe and the carbiolet where the only p7 that has inner rockers witch where made from 3 mm steel and its only welded on top to back of the sill. And yess its rusted out as well.





Than i found a double floor. Maybe this car belonged to a drugsrunner??? Some one tought to cover something up by welding, well it was not really welding, a plate over the original floor. It was done so poorly that i could pool this double floor right off.







If you think it cant get any worse......well....  if you have a sensitive stumic look away now.

It started with a small rust hole. but look more closely and whats missing?



There are no spotwelds to hold the inner floor and inner fender against the A pillor. When the sealer and tarmac is removed you can see the panels gaping. Accept for the sealer there is nothing that holds them together. Are you getting scarred yet??? You should.







Since the A pillor is the strongest part of the body and with rusted out inner rockers and a outer rocker thats only has a few spot welds you can imagen that car body got bend. There was no point to contineu to work on the car. When i leveld the car i found that the left side of the car was dropt 18 mm. 

I can tell you i dropped everything and went home, drunk a cop off coffie and called a friend witch has a body shop and asked him for advice. I was not allowed to make pictures there but they have a nice bench where you can pull and push a car straight as a arrow again. While it was on the bench we also bended a new inner rocker out of 3 mm corten steel and a new inner sill and welded everything back together.

Back home i did the rest starting with floor.













Most people always forget to weld the rocker on the insite to the sill. Its not easy to do but here i have done it.



Finist A style.



Time to tackel the rear fender.

You can see the inner fender here. Some diy junk and i cut it out before i put the new fender on.





Here you can see the cleaned up inner fender and yess there was a othere spot they welded on but was done badly. So i cut that out as well and made a patch panel for it.





Sadly i forgot to take a picture of the finished result.





I still to weld in a piece in the rear corner. I orderd a new one but its not here yet.

Now i can start on the right side of the car because i found a few rust spot there as well.............

For now sleep well. Till the next update.

[mk2 cossie]

Blimey! That's quite a shocking amount of previous repair work there Paul 
If you could class that as repair work 

[capri v8 driver]

I showed the pictures to the previous owner and he told me that the owner before him brought the car to a body shop to have it painted and do the repair work. He just bought the freshly painted car. He was quiet shocked to see all this "repair work" as he drove that car with his little kids.

I showed you my work on the left side. I still have to do the right side and I guess it will be just as bad.

[capri v8 driver]

I showed you my work on the left side. I still have to do the right side and I guess it will be just as bad.

Yess it was bad. The bottom of the inner rocker was gone. Someone did put a new out rocker over it but never repaired the inner rocker. Since the person that did this repair he never uses any rust proofing with the result that the out rocker has rust again. And also here, the rocker and fender was only hold together with a few spot welds, sealer and bondo.





Since the inner rockers are only used for the coupe and the convertible you cant get new ones. I asked a friend to bend a 3 mm corten steel strip that I can use as a new inner rocker.







I cut the rust out of the inner wheel well and stretched it so the 9.5 inch wheels will have enough clearance and weld it back together and coat it with a rust proofing coating.



And.............the wheel fits inside the wheel well



More rust. I just cut it away.



With all the rust out of the way its time to make all the new sheetmetal fit as its isn't really a weld on thing.



The rocker is drilled and cut so it will fit the car. If ou look closely you can see I also drilled holes for the water drainage. I als did the same with panel after the door because it turns out the factory never made it and so the water that drips along the window stays in the car.



Before I weld it on I used rust coating again on the inside. Why. Because of the inner rocker there isn't space between the outer and inner rocker where you can put a hose in to spray rust coating



And the rocker is welded in.



The end result of 3 weeks grinding, cutting, cleaning and welding:





At least the car is now structural sound and save again. I also found some time to modify the instruments so it would fit in the dash. If you look closely in the last picture you can see the modded instrument cluster in the car.





Here is the original instrument cluster so you can see what I have done.



Next week i will start with installing the jaguar door locks and make new door lock strikers and than i can tint the windows and install them as well and there is more than enough to do. Till next update.

[capri v8 driver]

I left you hanging but there are not many updates as the car is mostly finished. Still I still have some pictures for you.


First I needed to finish the door locks.

Insite the door:







I also repainted the sheet metal repairs I did and tinted the rear and side windows.



I also started on the interior:

New seats. Well they are from a Peugeot 206 cc. I also started in the mid console.





But before i can finish the interieur i need to solve issue's as there is a battery drain and with some luck its just the ignition switch witch will arrive next week and there was a problem with the traction control witch turned out to be a wrong polarity of the sensor but i havent tested it yet and i have to get some more wheel clearance on the front wheels as they are rubbing against the fire wall when i turn the wheels.

But at least the car is drivable and on the street now. The remaining stuff will be fixe in the coming weeks.

If you ever want to do such a conversion I hope you can find some inspration from this conversion story. 

[KetsMcLets]

Holy sh*t Paul,  I remember seeing this engine sitting in your garage and the 20M outside your door and you told me about your plans and I thought: well that'll be a long-term project     So I guess not, this is very awesome!!
When the Capri comes out of hibernation maybe I'll come and have a looksee    

[capri v8 driver]

The capri v8 is back in the garage due bad weather but I have driven it a few times sinds may this year.

I did not make much progress on the 20M any more due work and the fact we are gone build a new house. I still need to figure out the battery drain witch is very time consuming as its one of the modules staying active after I turn the ignition off.   

[puuhapete]

Wau! Now it is sweet 2OM!. You can
Continue, I follow this.

[capri v8 driver]

At the moment there is still a intermediat battery drain caused by the system staying active. But I cant find the problem or cause why this is happening and the problem isn't there all the time witch makes searching for the problem even more difficult. So in order to combat the problem I bought a other complet inner and dash wiring loom as the loom I now have is made from several pieces of loom and may hold the fault. By replacing it with a uncut original loom I hope to solve the problem or at least rule out the loom as the problem.

If I can find the time as I also are building a new house I will do the loom change next year.

[Eurogranada]

Awesome project! Been away too long I see. Sorry to rad about the fire. Hope you are up under your own roof again in the new house.

I love the jag engine and it is certainly a feat that you got it running. I'd love one in the Granada. Not because the BOb isn't fast enough, although when used to it you always want faster, but more because the BOB is such a mess. It sure marks it's territory!

[capri v8 driver]

Hope you are up under your own roof again in the new house.

Nope. We started building a new house and we hope to be finished at the end of the year.

Not because the BOb isn't fast enough, although when used to it you always want faster, but more because the BOB is such a mess. It sure marks it's territory!

The duratec is faster but thats not why i used it. There are more parts for it availible and there are more duratecs for sale for normal prices then a cossie witch is rare, most of them done a lot of miles and more expencive to buy and difficult to find parts for. So going the duratec route was not a difficult choise.

A small update. The ecu's not going in sleep mode and battery drain is fixed after swapping the loom. Turned out that in the old loom, a switched feed made contact with a constant feed in a connector.

[capri v8 driver]

Hope you are up under your own roof again in the new house.

Nope. We started building a new house and we hope to be finished at the end of the year.

Not because the BOb isn't fast enough, although when used to it you always want faster, but more because the BOB is such a mess. It sure marks it's territory!

The duratec is faster but thats not why i used it. There are more parts for it availible and there are more duratecs for sale for normal prices then a cossie witch is rare, most of them done a lot of miles and more expencive to buy and difficult to find parts for. So going the duratec route was not a difficult choise.

A small update. The ecu's not going in sleep mode and battery drain is fixed after swapping the loom. Turned out that in the old loom, a switched feed made contact with a constant feed in a connector.

Damm its more then 2 years since i posted something in this topic.

A lot has happend in those 2 years.

Shortly after the last post i made in this topic we started building a new house. First my dad would do the management of the build but he sufferd a hearth failure and was out of action as his health would not allow it to continue. So i build my parents a new house. Building a house next to a 40 hour job is not fun and it took a lot of me as well. But its finished now.

 


And for sale. It will hurt but my parents don't feel at home anymore due what happend there and it became a very big house. But it only will be sold if we can find a suitable new place with a smaller house and that's not so easy as the house prices are going true the roof.

And the 20M? Due the corona i lost my job because my employer was afraid and wanted to cut the staff to the absolute minimum. It did give some time to spend on the 20M. Most work was on the electrics and i can tell you need to connect everything to the jag's system or you will run into problems. A small issue, i did not connect the airbags or the airbag module because i don't have a airbag. The engine went into limp home mode after 10 minutes of driving because of that and even with the airbag module connected same problem because it does not see the airbags. No problem i added 3 ohm resistors for each airbag but no. Now it did not see the pretensioners of the seats: limp home mode. So i fixed that as well but no. Now it went into limp home mode because it did not see the crash sensors. You can imagen this cost a lot of time but now no more fault codes and everything electric now works like it should. 

I had a lot of issues with the brakes due the Audi master brake cylinder. It took ages to get the air out and it would still not build a decent brake pressure. So after a lot of trail and error, swapping the booster and master cylinders a few times, new brake hoses and lines and rebuilding all brake calipers and ever after the help from the Audi specialist we could not find the problem. It turned out that the Audi B5 brake booster and cylinder needed to be turned 90 degrees to make it work and it's not like a normal master cylinder witch has the feeds on top. Found that out by accident. That's a other 3 months spend on solving a problem. 

So am i driving it? No. There is a issue with the automatic transmission as it has a delay when shifting. I luckily found a rebuild one for just 50 euro's. That's cheap you would say and yes it is. The downside was that the car breaker, a good friend of mine and very close to me closed its doors.

The to do list:

- Gearbox swap.
- Some small stuff.
- Interieur as the old stuff has perished or is missing.
- Body work.

So this topic will continue.