A couple of firsts for the 24V I think.

[Dave]

Just for info really.

I think I am the first to do the below to a V6.

First up some prototype pics of my rear diff to front diff conversion.
Been done with the YB cossie but I am the first to do the V6  

Gains
Very cheap to do.
Any ratio for the 7inch rear diff can be used.
Alot stronger than the STD front diff. (Good for 300lbs torque at least)
Uses viscous limited slip.
Lots around & parts a plenty.


Can be uprated to 1000hp just by uprating the gear set & middle cradle.
Can be bought cheap if you know where to look.





All above is part of my 24V project car comming soon to Ford Power.

[TwinTurbo]

Nice work dave

TT

That front casing is ace on the box..

TT

[Tony]

its been a long hard road dave but your close now mate... well done

tone

[revhead]

Dave i'm puzzled as to how the bellhousing bolts up to the the engine, it is integrally cast after all?

[capri v8 driver]

job well done, can't wait to see when its finisht.

greetz paul.
capri v8 driver.

[Dave]

The front part is where all the work was done.

Easier than it looks


Not a first as mine is the 3rd 24V to have them.
They are Geoff's own design of petrol VNT turbo.
Made out of two other turbo's, Geoff designed the exhaust section of the turbo of which only 150 of them where cast.





To give you an idea the car will be able to hit 60mph in first gear!

[Chris]

its been a long hard road dave but your close now mate... well done

tone

Agreed, that's an awesome job...   Just interested in how much work is involved in the rear-diff conversion.

Chris

[turboshed]

nice work dave lets hope you don't rip the sump off with all that torque!

[robrs2]

What are you doing for the clutch arm or  going for a hydro one?

[Dave]

The rear to front diff conversion is cheap money wise but takes abit of time & thought.
A guy does 7.5 inch conversions for the Yb for about £2000 I think it was, gives you an idea of the work involved  

The pics are only prototype fitment, the actual welding of the mounts etc won't be done to the new year on my girdled sump.
It fits inside the sump same as STD & has 4 fixings instead of the STD 3. Fixings are further from the centre & combined with the stronger girdled sump is way stronger than the STD set-up Gray  

Yes I am using a hydralic clutch but it is possible to use the STD Mt-75 stuff if you want.

I am actually using a £800 750bhp rated Skyline clutch I got free with the gearbox  

Breakers didn't realise it was almost new & worth £400 2nd hand

Cost 130 quid to mate it to the Ford fly wheel & balance it thou.

But did give me a 4kg weight saving that should let her rev nicely.

Not as good as Geoffs, he used a auto flexi plate with a metal disk fixed to it with a helix clutch.

I decided against that as mine is a all rounder rather than track only.

The makers of the clutch say the ideal weight for a Skyline flywheel is 6.8kg, so I matched that!

[Dave]

Just to add what is the best thing by far is the VNT turbo's.

The TT 12V is a low down torque monster as everyone pretty much knows, the minker makes 200lbs at 2000rpm.
The 24V with the VNT's will be double that at 400lbs + @ 2000rpm.

How many engines can hit that figure by 2000rpm?
Even a 7 litre LS7 V8 only hits about 380 by 2000rpm.

The 24V will still be pushing 400lbs + till just over 6500rpm. Usable power or what  

[Taps]

To give you an idea the car will be able to hit 60mph in first gear!

All that work and your going back to a type 9        

[Dave]

All that work and your going back to a type 9        

Actually mate the Skyline 1st gear is  taller than the type 9's.
About half way between 1st & 2nd on the 2.9 MT-75.

The type 9 would crap itself behind my 24V    

In 2nd it will hit 100mph

3rd = 145mph

4th = 190mph

5th = God knows as it is the eco gear so I can hit 40mpg  
But I have worked it so peak HP is at 200mph so maybe just maybe
But of course all depends how much power I actually get.


It's making the car to be a reliable package that takes the time & work.
Anyone can bolt a couple of fancy turbo's to the engine.

[Taps]

The type 9 would crap itself behind my 24V    

Would be a laugh to see if it made 60 before crapping its self with what you going to be putting out  

[Dave]

Pretty sure it wouldn't fit any more mate as I have moved the engine back & moved things around a bit

[Simon 3 door]

Actually mate the Skyline 1st gear is  taller than the type 9's.
About half way between 1st & 2nd on the 2.9 MT-75.

The type 9 would crap itself behind my 24V    

In 2nd it will hit 100mph

3rd = 145mph

4th = 190mph

5th = God knows as it is the eco gear so I can hit 40mpg  
But I have worked it so peak HP is at 200mph so maybe just maybe
But of course all depends how much power I actually get.
It's making the car to be a reliable package that takes the time & work.
Anyone can bolt a couple of fancy turbo's to the engine.

Of course those theoretical speeds are "in vacuo" - i.e. in a vacuum with no air hence engine won't run! Don't forget frictional forces (tyres, drag, wind resistance due to frontal area etc) all rise proportionally to speed squared - i.e. twice the speed, four times the opposing forces. Then you've got to keep the bugger on the ground hence require downforce which itself increases drag... good luck!

[Dave]

Yeah I have allowed for all them forces that's why I say 5 th "god knows"

5th works out to 250mph at the limiter but there is no way the car will do that due to the forces you mentioned which are huge at them speeds.
It worked out to like 1500bhp needed to push the car to that speed  
The figures are based on the Minkers drag results with weight increased to 1500kg & 600bhp.
According to my results it will do 190 in 4th but only 192 in 5th as it runs out of puff, if I get more power or lower weight then 200mph is possible.

First 4 gears all work out possible with conservative calculations of what the engine should produce.


All pub talk thou, I need to crack-on & start proving it

[MD Cos]

hi,

surely the diff would need to run upside down for it to work as a front one? or have you sorted a gearset to allow it to run in reverse? good work on the skyline box though, i'm looking to do the conversion myself on my escos :D

[xr4x4 mk1]

   excerlent stuff there Dave, will be a monster when done, but is that welding around the bellhousing gonna be strong enough with all that power your expecting  

[Dave]

 

Well was wondering when someone would say about it's rotation.

I have not decided if I want to recover my cost my doing a few for people so it's a secret at the mo  

I will just leave you a pic of the STD 3.62 pinion Vrs the new 3.14 7inch to show how much stronger it is   What have I done?

[xr4x4 mk1]

Marcus the Mt75 front is 4-5.5mm thick, Skyline is 4.5-6.5 & weld is 8-10.5mm.
It's also welded in a special way & in places upto 20mm thick.

Also part of the fun of this is to break it. The proto type was fixed to the wheel of a  XF480 tractor unit & clutch dumped. Reached 2nd low before it smashed. Not where it was welded either.

I remember it worked out to about 50 tons of force.

I had to do this as I was orginally gonna have a adapter plate made but this would have been 3 times the cost & created loads of extra problems + the so called specialists said weld was no good.
I had to prove them wrong.
Also further to this I have been told all the rear to front diffs done are for LHD cars.
Mine is the first RHD.
The steering rack is a nightmare to sort out.

Almost ready for testing

Cool  

[capri v8 driver]

the so called specialists said weld was no good.
I had to prove them wrong.

maybe those so called specialist need to open there eyes then.

i have seen several bellhousing's that where welded to fit a toyota supra bell house against a ford v8 and other engines. if its welded correctly, its even stronger than than a adaptor plate.

greetz paul.

capri v8 driver.

[Dave]

Well I can't blame them for saying it as they are trying to run a business  

I have learnt that advice from firms should be only took as advice.

They are out to make money from you so once they realise what your up to they try to put you off  

I had Brom (Zoo Motorsport) here just after he was on the sick.

He told me that all the early YB Cossie/Skyline conversions where welded with out any problems at all.

Infact Brom would do this for you, say Dave with the Minker from Evesham sent you

[MD Cos]

Well was wondering when someone would say about it's rotation.

i've thought about it since and the direction of rotation will be right, just the force on the pinion and the crownwheel will be loaded from the other side if that makes any sense?  

i've heard you have to modify the oilway around the pinion bearing if you want it to last?

any more info on the box or the diff would be awesome!   ie. how did you go about lining the bellhousing up to weld it?


cheers