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Ford Sierras that i have owned.

Started by Archie., March 14, 2013, 15:07:47

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Archie.

Heres a few pics of the sierras i have owned

The first 3 were all 2.0 twincams and my most recent one has a 2.9 24v V6 BOA engine.







And this is the sierra that i currently own.. Il throw up a bit more spec on this one when i have time


Lemon-Ade

Some nice saphs there Archie, well done mate.

Run in ......

Archie.

Thanks mate. The first one was spotless underneath and i regret selling because it was that good in below, it but i got offered good money and it needed a few bits painted to leave it immaculate so i preferred the cash lol.

My current sierra is spotless underneath as well and it has quite a spec list. I will be wax oiling it soon but il get some pictures of how good it is before i put any wax oil on.

The other 2 sierras had the odd patch or 2 be over all they were still in great order and very clean body wise.

whiteestate

I really like the black saff they all look really good though. Hows the 24v have you got it running any better yet ?
"Praising what is lost makes the remembrance dear"

Archie.

Still trying to get it running better. Had a mate looking at it tonight and he reckons the firing order isnt correct and thats what the issue is. He knows his way round a 24v engine with his eyes closed so im hoping what he told me is right. He told me there are a couple of different firing orders for them. Trolling through the web here to see if i can find diagrams for it.

She did 140mile to £60 so i know shes definatly not running right lol.

turboshed

2.8,2.9 12 valve and 24 valve boa and bob firing orders are all 142536 there are no different.

xr4x4 twin dinky turbo, emerald k3 management,302bhp and 400ftlbs@21 psi

Archie.

I was looking through the internet and i seen that as well. 3-6 1-4 2-5 was all i could find. I checked them all today and the right leads are on the right plugs, they could possibly be in the wrong order on the distributor but i cant find a diagram for it.

v6gerry

look in a hayns manual there a diagram in there

Grey

Quote from: Archie. on March 26, 2013, 03:48:57
I was looking through the internet and i seen that as well. 3-6 1-4 2-5 was all i could find. I checked them all today and the right leads are on the right plugs, they could possibly be in the wrong order on the distributor but i cant find a diagram for it.



This is how easy it is. Just follow the image above and you will have the correct setup. If it still runs bad, check the plugs to see if they are white or black. Black = Too much fuel. White = Too much air.
If so, it could be problems with lambda or injectors.

TimoXr4i


Archie.

Thanks fellas. All the info is greatly appreciated and its helping me learn a bit more. Checked all the leads today and there all ok.

Called to a mates house tonight & had a look round his engine and i have noticed he has something on his fuel lines that i dont. 2 little circle boyos that i believe are non return valves or something. Im under the impression that i need these because they will stop fuel running back and stop to much fuel going into the engine, would i be right in thinking that?

I've noticed that when i throw a few circles that the fuel seems to be running back even if the tank is full, the car just dies and splutters but yet so far with easy driving its done 300mile to £125 worth of good fuel (not supermarket pish).

Grey

Quote from: Archie. on March 27, 2013, 02:30:22
Thanks fellas. All the info is greatly appreciated and its helping me learn a bit more. Checked all the leads today and there all ok.

Called to a mates house tonight & had a look round his engine and i have noticed he has something on his fuel lines that i dont. 2 little circle boyos that i believe are non return valves or something. Im under the impression that i need these because they will stop fuel running back and stop to much fuel going into the engine, would i be right in thinking that?

I've noticed that when i throw a few circles that the fuel seems to be running back even if the tank is full, the car just dies and splutters but yet so far with easy driving its done 300mile to £125 worth of good fuel (not supermarket pish).

These are just return valves (maybe what you call them?). They prevent the fuel to flow back to the tank. It is the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) that fixes that you don't get to much or little fuel (as it says). The FPR is not located there, but below the plenum on the right side of the fuel rail.

This is the best thing to do.
Load the car with tools that you need when you change spark plugs on the 24v.
Go for a run, when the engine is in working temperature you press full throttle on one gear (preferable 2nd or 3rd). when hitting rev limit or at least above 5500K rpm, turn off the engine and stop the car. If you have an automatic gearbox, slow down ASAP!

Now take out all spark plugs and notice how they look:


When done, take a photo if possible and type the result here. Then we can help you on what you should look closer on.


whiteestate

Just use the img code and cut and paste that as we can't see the pic  ;)
"Praising what is lost makes the remembrance dear"

MaxXR





Here hope this helps. Archie's Photo's

Archie.

Sorry if the pics arent great fellas but its the best my iphone could manage lol. Would i be right in saying they look like there getting to much fuel then?

Grey

Quote from: Archie. on March 28, 2013, 03:23:34
Sorry if the pics arent great fellas but its the best my iphone could manage lol. Would i be right in saying they look like there getting to much fuel then?

Yepp, you are right on the spot.
Is it all 6 plugs or?

If so, I would guess a temp sensor, either water or air. If it was a lambda, it should make only one side black and the other fine. Not often that two lambdas break at the same time.

Archie.

That was just plug No.2 that i pulled out. I didnt pull out any from the passenger side but im going to now.

Had a stroke of bad luck today as well. Was going to a mates house to try and figure out what the problem is. Was in filling the car with petrol and when i pulled out there was a wee man with a hammer looking out  :laugh:





Passenger side rocker cover is fucked and i need the right hand side cam on the passenger side now as well as it sheared off and i also need one cam holder. Its a friggin money pit but im determined to get this bitch going right.

All the valves etc all seem fine. As soon as the cam broke i turned the car off so hopefully no damage has been done else were.

Anyone able to sort me out with a cam and a rocker cover & cam holder?

cossiemk2

That's bad luck there Archie.

Why did it break, was the cam cap loose?

Archie.

Not sure what happened to be honest. The cam holder could have let go and caused the cam to shear off or else the force of the cam breaking could have broke the holder. All i know is the bolts for the cam holder have sheared and half of them are still stuck in the head.

Also anyone able to tell me what type of injectors these look like?



I have asked 2 fellas with V6's and they both said there V6 vectra injectors were red/orange.

capri v8 driver

There should be a number on the injector body.

Do you have pictures of the cam holder and the head?
greetz Paul.

Capri V8 Driver.

Archie.



that the right number? its 280 155 712 just incase its hard to make out.







Pics of the cam holder








capri v8 driver

BOSCH 0-280-155-712
19.4 LBS/HR
203.9 CC/MIN
146.7 GRAMS
43.5 PSI
3 BAR

They are use in the vectra but they have the same rate as the cossie injectors.

Back to your other problem.

It looks like the cam holder where not tightened down correctly or the bolt's broke or loosened. This would cause the cam to flex and break just like a paper clip.

greetz Paul.

Capri V8 Driver.

Archie.

Well a bit of good news today atleast. Got a new cam but im still on the hunt for a cam cover and the cam holder beside the no.6 plug.

Any of you fellas know the wereabouts of theses bits i need? I would buy a full passenger side head as well at the right money.

capri v8 driver

Maybe the old cam holder can be cleaned up and re-used after a line bore.
greetz Paul.

Capri V8 Driver.

Archie.

Yeah well im hoping that could be the case. By any chance are the 2.0 twincam ones the same? If they were i could probably get one relatively easy but i dont really want many people that i run about with knowing what happened as they will just start storeys about the car so i wouldnt want to go asking someone to let me see if they were the same lol.

Been trying everywere i could think of for a cover but i have had no joy yet. A fella i know offered me a full engine but the engine is done and he asked me 3 times more than what he paid for it so he can keep it & he wont strip the engine either.

TimoXr4i

Have seen quite a few boa / bob engines been fooked, scrapped for just a few bucks, maybe see if someone has a seized engine (cant find it,but i suspect you have a boa), from witch you can buy the complete engine for the scrap prize, and use that head, cams and cover? I can buy a fooked boa in holland for about 50 euros if stripped from manifold and such, butbottom end and heads and cams and such, refresh that and use those parts? No idea id the twinkie ones are the same, buti suspect not, becouse the twinky cams are really silly heavy parts

Archie.

Is that engine for sale? Or do you have any details on it?

I know a fella who has a fuck engine that he bought for £100 but he had the cheek to ask me £300 for it.

I would like to get the parts soon though cause im fed up lookin at the car sitting not moving already lol.

TimoXr4i

He asks 100 euros and a case of beer, but posting the whole thing to the uk will cost much more than 200 quid i think, better source someone near you who has an engine. He wont sell just the head, and i dont want to get stuck with a headless engine on my dads shed...

Grey

Quote from: TimoXr4i on April 01, 2013, 19:56:02
He asks 100 euros and a case of beer, but posting the whole thing to the uk will cost much more than 200 quid i think, better source someone near you who has an engine. He wont sell just the head, and i dont want to get stuck with a headless engine on my dads shed...

Why not buy the whole engine and change it? You probably have more work and problems with changing the head instead of putting in a complete fully working engine.

€100 and some beers is just a bargain!

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