Simons 24V Project

simes · October 11, 2006, 10:08:02

Quote from: maddoldbugger
simon

and the brown/white for the temp, green for the rev counter

Sorry I forgot to mention them

I've put those on a seperate plug along with the fuel computer connection, the VSS again and the cruise control signals. Which means I can run the engine and plug the rest in later.

I've made up a termporay plug with just the engine temp for the time being.

There'll be some pictures and diagrams soon.

Any idea if there's a short cut place to pick up the wire to the temp gauge or do I need to run the wire all the way to the back of the dash.

Tony · October 11, 2006, 18:51:11

simon
if you sierra is the "face lift" model youl find there are 3 plugs near the battery, this holds all the connections ya need,, blue alternator, brown/white for temp green/black oil pressure, red/blue?? fuel pump etc,,
there are 2 blacks, one is switched via ignition on..

my looms connect in there (not ment to sound cocky)

tony

simes · October 11, 2006, 19:36:50

Thanks Tony

I'm not sure if my car counts as face lift or not. It's a J plate but has the new type lower dash but the old type upper dash. Is the wiring 90 spec or 92 spec? it was registered Aug 91 so it must be 90 spec.

I have a complete sierra 92 spec diagram but only the engine part of the 90 spec one so I can't trace the connections all the way through.
Thanks to the guys that sent me sierra diagrams by the way.

I've been so busy making sure I got the 24V loom how I need it I havn't had time to trace everything in the car. I took the dash out but that was in the dark.

Are ther always three plugs there? I'll check it with a meter but the more info the easier it is.

Do you unplug these connectors and plug yours in or do you solder it in at these points? I need to be carefull about unplugging stuff in case the air con stops working (why I need the correct diagram) . Tthe picture of your loom again shows just plain flying leads for the instruments so I assume you make a solder connection.

I also noticed your bolt to chassis ground wires are in a slightly different place to mine.. I removed one as it was connected to the air con loom. of the others I have one that belongs to the ECU and sholud be grounded near to it. one that connects to the battery and and one in its original place attache to the test connector.

Are there places in existance to bolt these to or do I have to make my own holes?

Simon

Taps · October 11, 2006, 19:50:16

Quote from: simes

Are there places in existance to bolt these to or do I have to make my own holes?

Simon

You aint making any hole without me looking first, drilling through the washer bottle was your first and last hole

Tony · October 11, 2006, 20:31:07

simon
its a guess as to what ford did with your car it was in the changeover period. mine is a december 91,, its the twin lambda model with the later dash,,
the three plugs i am talking about are behind the sound proofing on the inner side of the battery, almost above the n/s cam box area...

the earth points are differant on the 24v's not all the same, but what i do is build a "grounding kit" in to the loom that has far better earthing than stock,,,
ya have to think, the cps has only a 300mv swing to trigger the edis, so the better the earths the less problems ya have...

you dont need to drill holes, just make the wires end in the correct place

ow the reason i build a grounding kit in!!!!,.. 24v doesnt like it if the voltage drops below 10v on cranking, the EDIS stops firing the coil pack,,,hence the need for a bloody good earth

tony

simes · October 11, 2006, 20:53:42

Tony that's pretty much what I thought, but just checking.

I'll double check where things go when I get up there on saturday. With the uncertain state of the wiring diagrams it's best to double check like when you're drilling holes, as I found out

I'll carry on with my current plan and if find out anything useful I might change it a bit.

Taps · October 13, 2006, 19:52:27

Your new fuel tank Si

Taps · October 15, 2006, 18:55:03

This weekends efforts

Saturday started ok till the water pump decided to start leaking coolant out, so that came out and replacement put it in.

Simes sorted wiring inside car while I sorted what was left to finish under the bonnet

His loom fitted like Factory fit under the bonnet

Simes wants to keep the Air Con, as his current pipe work didnt match the 24V air con pump and he wanted the system sealed up not left open his 12V pump set up was fitted, this was what was causing the problem
The mounting bracket to the engine is different in the fact that it comes forward a lot more then the 24V one

And onto the exhaust

Modified Drivers side 24V/12V mix down pipe

simes · October 15, 2006, 21:56:24

Heres the air con problem

As you can see the pipes come out of the 12V pump backwards and out of the top of the 24V pump. But the pullys are different. the 24V bracket is not as high so it should fit.

Rather than sort out the air con now it made sense to refit the 12v one without the drive belt so that the system would remain sealed till I could sort it out.

Now it looks like I will have to swap to the 24V one inluding the 24V pipes wihich meand swapping over the condensor as well, which isn't in such good condition.

Chris · October 16, 2006, 15:11:04

Quote from: simes
Heres the air con problem

Chris

Taps · October 16, 2006, 18:16:08

Quote from: Chris
What about wiring up the clutch... The 12V one has one wire, but the 24V has two connections.... I am hving to get some pipes made up to do the job, but I am also going to have to replace the dryer unit.

Chris

The 12V earths through the pump body so only needs a live the 24V earths elsewhere hence the 2 wires live in earth backI think your find chris,

Here ya go Simon, your all new modded passenger side down pipe, it worked out a treat

will save a lot of time and hassle next time the exhaust has to come off

Chris · October 16, 2006, 18:27:49

That's what I figured, but does it matter which is which, as the plug doesn't seem to be polarized.

Chris

Taps · October 16, 2006, 18:42:48

Quote from: Chris
That's what I figured, but does it matter which is which, as the plug doesn't seem to be polarized.

Chris

Not sure to be honest Chris will have a look at my wiring tomorrow.

Chris · October 16, 2006, 18:45:10

Cheers mate...

Chris

glyn · October 16, 2006, 21:17:38

Its the clutch on the air con unit.the clutch is a magnet so it has to have 12v neg and pos if u only have 1 wire on the car check its probably 12v pos switching on demand check with your meter bit of a job with it bieng a coil one side should be to ground are you using 4i air con pump,aint got that on mine..glyn

Chris · October 16, 2006, 21:40:48

No, I'm using the 24V compressor... that's the one with a 2 wire connector. the 12V one only has the single wire, and yes, it is 12V when activated.

Chris

glyn · October 16, 2006, 21:52:34

have u put an ohms meter to earth an see which one of the 2 terminals onthe cluth unit shows a resistance to earth..one terminal sould be lower than the other...check your meter put 2 probes to earth you want it as close to that reading..that one you can then earth out ..saying that on the 24v one with 2 termanals polarity dont matter.I got carried away a bit...glyn

Chris · October 16, 2006, 21:56:17

yep, I can do that...

I am going to have to change the connector anyway, because I don't have a matching connector...

Chris

glyn · October 16, 2006, 22:12:03

Ok m8 ave you tried it with one wire on..dont think itll work..like I said mag is like a coil needs a pos and neg..glyn..if i find out more ill let u know

Taps · October 17, 2006, 21:41:29

Tonight was going to be Fire up night but a few problems put paid to that.

First off, fitting the clutch cable, no matter where I routed in couldnt get a decent line into the bell housing with the oil cooler and remote oil filter fitted

, check spark, ok, check fuel nope none there, I had some how managed to connect the fuel pipes one the wrong way , swopped them and tried again, plenty of fuel, plenty in the V anyway 2 injector seals pissing it out, so off with the intake manifold now awaiting new seals

glyn · October 17, 2006, 21:44:24

thats why I Dont like 4x4's no room..

Taps · October 17, 2006, 22:20:03

Quote from: glyn
thats why I Dont like 4x4's no room..

Tis tight down the diff side with that diff sitting there

glyn · October 17, 2006, 22:24:58

mmmmmmmm tight mmmmmmm dont like that to fidlee....sh.t me spellin aint inprovin glyn..

simes · October 19, 2006, 22:52:12

Chris

These are the wiring diagrams from a 2.0 sierra and a 2.9 sierra.

The one with a single wire on the plug is the 2.9 (same as mine) the other is the same as the 24V compressor but you can see one wire goes to ground.

On the pipe front I'll have to get a new drier as well now that the system has been opened.

It looks like I will have to fit the pipes, condensor and compressor from the 24V. The only trouble is the 24V condensor and pipe aren't in such good condition as my 12V ones.

Out of interest is anyone doing a 24V conversion and had a doner car where the air con was working before they took the engine out. I could be interested in the pipes and condensor from a known working system.

Chris · October 19, 2006, 22:56:50

Thanks simes... I figured that was how the wiring should be....

Now to explain to the wife why the drier is no good, even though it was working before

they aren't cheap, and there is no substitute, you have to buy a new OEM one...

Chris

simes · October 28, 2006, 23:21:54

It Lives.

After a false start last week. It decided to squirt petrol over the outside of the engine instead of inside it

We fitted the new injector seals today, bolted it back together, did couple of quick checks and turned the key.

It started first go and ran like a dream.

Now we've bled the brakes we just need to fix the leak in the exhaust and get an MOT.

Pictures of the loom soon

Then it's on to the interior

Super 12v · October 29, 2006, 01:24:53

Quote from: simes
It Lives.

After a false start last week. It decided to squirt petrol over the outside of the engine instead of inside it

We fitted the new injector seals today, bolted it back together, did couple of quick checks and turned the key.

It started first go and ran like a dream.

Now we've bled the brakes we just need to fix the leak in the exhaust and get an MOT.

Pictures of the loom soon

Then it's on to the interior

Cool Simon I bet you can wait to take it for a spin

Planning on taking the 24v to the pub meet next Sunday? Would be nice to see it if you are

Rob

Taps · November 02, 2006, 19:57:35

Quote from: Super 12v
Cool Simon I bet you can wait to take it for a spin

Planning on taking the 24v to the pub meet next Sunday? Would be nice to see it if you are

Rob

Well it went in for its MOT yesterday and his taking it home tomorrow

tiff · November 02, 2006, 23:50:08

excellent work there

your car is the Feb 90 - October 91 spec car Simes (pre-CAT)....remember it is the build date that matters not the registered date.....as Tony says the loom on the facelift cars is slightly different...

bet you can't wait?!

xr4x4 mk1 · December 03, 2006, 10:55:12

Very good work done there Im still thinking i should have gone the 24v route and not chucked loads of money at my 12v

Simons 24V Project

glyn

glyn

glyn

glyn

glyn

Super 12v

xr4x4 mk1