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1952 Jaguar XK120

Started by PaPiTo Paul, January 26, 2008, 21:56:51

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PaPiTo Paul

A little history:
1962 - Bought used from second owner for 500 USD. 10 years old, good condition. Second car, my first was a 1931 Ford Model-A 5-window coupe. I bought while in high school. Poormans sports car.

1966 - Rebuilt engine. Bored 100 over, new pistons. Weber 3/4 race cams. Mark 7 M-head, raising compression ratio to a little over 10.5:1. I could peg the tach (7K RPM) and the speedometer (140 MPH) going uphill, in the snow, barefoot  

1982 - Moved to upstate New York from Southern California, on a 2 year "temporary" job assignment. Put up on blocks in the garage. She was getting kind of showing her age and I did not want to destroy her on the horrible roads in that part of the country.

2000 - Retired after 33 years with IBM. Still up on blocks in the garage.

2005 - Moved to Florida. I had found a mover with a trailer that could her south without exposing to inclement weather.

2006 - Found Imagination Engineering ( http://imaginationengineering.com/]http://imaginationengineering.com/ ) and was impressed their ability to be able to do the work required. They had a Cortina in the shop they had installed a Ford-Cosworth engine in. Of course it would fit in the old girl. So I made the decision to swap out the old DOHC straight 6 and install a V6 Ford-Cosworth 2.9L FBA engine. My old engine had started right up before being taken out and sold on ebay.

Where I am today:
Still up off the floor on a car stand. Gas tank has been cleaned out of many years of stale fuel. No big loss, as I only paid about .50 USD / gallon for it. Disk brakes all around with dual boosters for the dual (front/back) braking system. New engine mounts installed in the frame, engine pretty much in final position.

New very small Japanese alternator and modification to belt path. It and the water pump are the only things on the serpentine belt. No power hungry Air Conditioning or power steering. No heater either. Good thing I am in Florida  

The oil filter mounting had to be fabricated to clear the frame. I wanted to keep the oil heat exchanger. Another advantage of going to the 24V engine is going from 15 quarts of oil down to 5.

Coming up next:
All chrome parts should be coming back from the platers this week.
I have been working with Discount Tires dealer here on finding some replacement wheels for a couple of months now. Took all kinds of pictures and measurements and found an alloy wheel for a 2002 Jeep Gran-Cherokee that may just fit. The problem is with clearing the new disk brakes,  remaining in the wheel well, and proper centering of the tires for load. I also want to go with a low profile tire to keep the unsprung weight down.
Installing a Volvo 90PSI fuel pump to keep the injectors fed happily.
Needs a paint job. I had a Honda Prelude in Norwegian Mist. Love that color (oops, colour).
Instrumentation has to be changed to electric from mechanical.
Still a LOT of work to do.
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Got a call from my Discount Tire dealer that I have been working with since sometime last year. The wheel that was ordered for test fitting came in. Picked it up and ran over to Imagination Engineering to visit my Jaguar and try the wheel. Everything looks good. May have to adjust the full lock steering limiters to make sure the tires do not interfere with the tie rods at lock. Really nice looking wheels. Time to sell the rear fender skirts on ebay. It would be a shame to hide 3/4 of the wheels.
Went ahead and ordered the other 3. http://www.eastcoasttires.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idProduct=15736]Wheel%20specs%20link.

I think I have decided on  BF Goodrich g-Force Sport 205/40ZR-17 80 RBL tires for the new wheels. My local tire dealer stocks these, and I don't have to make the final decision until the wheels come in. These have the lowest profile I could find. The salesman was thinking higher profile for a smoother ride. It is a SPORTS car, not a family sedan.
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overview/g-force-sport/2964.html]Manufacturer%20Specs

I updated my http://papito-paul.blogspot.com/]blog with additional pictures.
-PaPiTo Paul

Taps

Look a bit modern for the car   , what gearbox you using Paul.

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: Taps
Look a bit modern for the car   , what gearbox you using Paul.
Well, I could have done a restoration to 1952 specs, but decided to modernize. More modern engine, disc brakes all around, plan to get different bucket chairs with 3 point lap straps.

Not quite sure what make/model gear box. It is a 5 speed manual. Next time I visit I'll find out more. I am curious about the ratios. I am sure 5th is an overdrive ratio. It came with a "donut" U-joint which is going to be replaced with a real U-joint when the drive shaft is fabricated.
-PaPiTo Paul

Taps

Think I'd of kept it standard looking but all the modern bits underneath and then enjoyed the looks on peoples faces as I left them in there modern cars for dust in my 1950's Jag  

IansSaph

#5
QuoteThink I'd of kept it standard looking but all the modern bits underneath and then enjoyed the looks on peoples faces as I left them in there modern cars for dust in my 1950's Jag biggrin.gif


i agree with that! You see that old ford with the BDA in on you tube? thats quality

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=iFSGSL3Nrmc]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=iFSGSL3Nrmc

Inspriation for you ~Paul

PaPiTo Paul

My first car was a model A. I got it 100 USD in 1959 or 60. I had modified it quite a bit: Juice brakes instead of the mechanicals. (The rods would stretch with hard braking). Lighter flywheel, 22 Lbs (10 Kg) taken off, 16 inch wire wheels so I could use cheaper retread tires. 3/4 race cam with an alloy gear from a Russian Jeep.
Top speed was about 80 MPH.

I was in high school at the time, with very little money, so other things I would have liked to do such as a Miller head were out of the question. It was a fun car, and handled well. Low gear could beat just about anything off the line, across an intersection, then look at them as they flew by as if it were not worth trying to race them.  

I still have the original 16 inch pressed steel wheels. So I could go to looking like original, but I doubt many people would know what that was, especially those under half a century old.

I should qualify for "antique" license plates... is that not enough?
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: Taps
Look a bit modern for the car   , what gearbox you using Paul.
Went and visited my car today. Not sure what gearbox. Took a picture of the stamping on the top plate.
[attachmentid=2100]
Maybe someone here can ID this tranny?

Still waiting on clutch plate. Holding things up, as I need it to attach the transmission, and have a drive shaft fabricated.
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Picked up my wheels and tires today. Getting a 60 USD rebate by buying the tires before 2/2.

[attachmentid=2103]

On the left: Original steel (spare) wheel and tire. One of the new wheels and tires. Now I am starting to get antsy about getter her on the road.
-PaPiTo Paul

Taps

Big difference it size there m8  

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: Taps
Big difference it size there m8  
More than meets the eye. More rubber on the road. The new tires are about 8 inches wide vs the original at 4.5 inches. Bigger footprint.

The original 600-16 tires have a circumference of 86 inches, New tires are 73.5 inches. So doing some quick SWAG math give 736 vs 862 Revolutions per mile or 2782 vs 3258 RPM in 4th gear (only gear box ratio I am sure of    )  with the 3.78 rear end ratio at 60 MPH. Assuming a .78 overdrive in 5th would bring the engine down to 2540 RPM at 60 MPH.

Guess I'll just have to drive around in 3rd gear for torque, and 2nd gear for horsepower on the interstates where the limit is 75 MPH.  
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: PaPiTo Paul
Needs a paint job. I had a Honda Prelude in Norwegian Mist. Love that color (oops, colour).
Did a whole bunch of research on-line today trying to find "Norwegian Mist" paint. Does not exist. But I did find "Nordic Mist" used on 97-98 Honda Prelude. The paint code is B83M-1. Now I have something very specific to go to the painter with. I could not find a color swatch, but did find this:
[attachmentid=2178]
Honda Nordic Mist Metallic

Some progress this week, got the clutch plate, now the transmission can be installed.

Slowly transforming the Orange Crate into the Silver Bullet!
-PaPiTo Paul

ianturbo

1952 xk ?? should you not have kept it sandard ?????
my thoughts  
ian

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: ianturbo
1952 xk ?? should you not have kept it sandard ?????
my thoughts  
ian
Well, IF I kept it standard, I would not be on Ford-Power, now would I?

I want to be able to burn unleaded, not having to mess with octane booster. Better gas mileage, less oil (the Jag engine takes 16 quarts, and the rear main bearing seal doesn't by design). There was no special pedigree like winning at Le Mans, or anywhere else. When I am done, I hope I won't have any regrets. Can hardly wait until I get it back on the road. Definitely a chick magnet.  
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Posted a video of the Ford-Cosworth in the Jaguar XK120 in my blog http://papito-paul.blogspot.com/2009/01/jaguar-project-cosworth-engine.html]http://papito-paul.blogspot.com/2009/01/ja...rth-engine.html

It has been a few months since have posted anything. Just a project update. Still a lot left to do. Re-wiring of entire car is done. Next will be painting.
-PaPiTo Paul

Tony

paul

i really like that. i think its going to turn out really nice!!

as for box, is it a uk spec or usa spec? looks like a type 9 to me
tony

the 24v xr4i auto-0 to 60 in 6.71 secs

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: maddoldbuggerpaul

i really like that. i think its going to turn out really nice!!

as for box, is it a uk spec or usa spec? looks like a type 9 to me
tony
Has to be a UK spec box, as both engine and transmission came from UK.
I would like to know the gear ratios without having to take it apart and count teeth, or wait until it is on the road to measure speed vs RPM to deduce them.

Latest hang-up, besides being too loud, is the fan belt coming off due to everything (crank pulley, alternator, tensioner and water pump) not aligned. Need to get that sorted out.

I could get it done a lot quicker by throwing more money at the project, but I have the guys at Imagination Engineering keeping their time down to $1K (USD) per month. Keeps them happy having steady work and being able to handle all the hot jobs that come in.
-PaPiTo Paul

capri v8 driver

#17
Quote from: ianturbo1952 xk ?? should you not have kept it sandard ?????
my thoughts  
ian

keep modifying, i like it.

and besides, how many oldtimers are still 100 % orginal?

gear ratio for the t9 6 cilinder gearboxes

2.0, 2.3 and 2.8 (granada carb)      
1e= 3.65                                
2e= 1.97                                
3e= 1.37                                
4e= 1.00                                
5e= 0.82                                

2.8i/2.9
3.36
1.81
1.26
1.00
0.825


greetz Paul.

Capri V8 Driver.

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: capri v8 driver
Quote from: ianturbo1952 xk ?? should you not have kept it sandard ?????
my thoughts  
ian

keep modifying, i like it.

and besides, how many oldtimers are still 100 % orginal?

gear ratio for the t9 6 cilinder gearboxes

2.0, 2.3 and 2.8 (granada carb)      
1e= 3.65                                
2e= 1.97                                
3e= 1.37                                
4e= 1.00                                
5e= 0.82                                

2.8i/2.9
3.36
1.81
1.26
1.00
0.825

Using a program called "Gear Calc" and the Jag 3.78 differential with the 205/40x17 tires (tyres):

Gear   Mph per 1000 RPM   Mph @6200 RPM
----------------------------------------
 1         5.06                31
 2         9.37                58
 3        13.48                84
 4        18.46               114
 5        22.52               140

Mph             RPM (in Gears)
-------------------------------------------------
          1        2        3        4        5        
-------------------------------------------------
  5      988      533      371      271      222
 10     1977     1067      742      542      444
 15     2965     1600     1113      812      666
 20     3954     2134     1484     1083      888
 25     4942     2667     1855     1354     1110
 30     5931     3201     2226     1625     1332
 35              3734     2597     1896     1554
 40              4268     2968     2166     1776
 45              4801     3339     2437     1999
 50              5335     3710     2708     2221
 55              5868     4081     2979     2443
 60                       4452     3250     2665
 65                       4823     3520     2887
 70                       5194     3791     3109
 75                       5565     4062     3331
 80                       5936     4333     3553
 85                                4604     3775
 90                                4874     3997
 95                                5145     4219
100                                5416     4441
105                                5687     4663
110                                5958     4885
115                                         5107
120                                         5329
125                                         5551
130                                         5773
135                                         5996

Gear Change     RPM drop (change @6200)
---------------------------------------
 1 -> 2            -2854 (to 3346)
 2 -> 3            -1888 (to 4312)
 3 -> 4            -1674 (to 4526)
 4 -> 5            -1116 (to 5084)

--- or ---

Gear   Mph per 1000 RPM   Mph @6200 RPM
----------------------------------------
 1         5.50                34
 2        10.20                63
 3        14.65                91
 4        18.46               114
 5        19.96               124

Mph             RPM (in Gears)
-------------------------------------------------
          1        2        3        4        5        
-------------------------------------------------
  5      910      490      341      271      250
 10     1820      980      682      542      501
 15     2730     1470     1024      812      751
 20     3640     1961     1365     1083     1002
 25     4549     2451     1706     1354     1252
 30     5459     2941     2047     1625     1503
 35              3431     2388     1896     1753
 40              3921     2730     2166     2004
 45              4411     3071     2437     2254
 50              4901     3412     2708     2505
 55              5392     3753     2979     2755
 60              5882     4094     3250     3006
 65                       4436     3520     3256
 70                       4777     3791     3507
 75                       5118     4062     3757
 80                       5459     4333     4008
 85                       5801     4604     4258
 90                       6142     4874     4509
 95                                5145     4759
100                                5416     5010
105                                5687     5260
110                                5958     5511
115                                         5761
120                                         6012

Gear Change     RPM drop (change @6200)
---------------------------------------
 1 -> 2            -2860 (to 3340)
 2 -> 3            -1884 (to 4316)
 3 -> 4            -1279 (to 4921)
 4 -> 5            -465 (to 5735)


I guess I am just going to have to patiently wait until I get it on the road to see what the actual values end up being. I will have to look into taking a day trip down to Sebring, Florida and see if I can't get on their track to do some benchmarking. There are also a couple of local drag strips I have to look in to for using their timing facilities.
I have not thought of putting it on a dyno, other than a final(?) step of changing the computer. Thinking seriously about an Emerald... need to get it on the road first.
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Wow, almost a year since I last updated this. Have been lurking on the forums, but not many updates.

[attachment=2995:Primer.JPG]
The Jag is over at the painters (pain-ters) going through a lot of pains to make it perfect. A lot of hand sanding, fill priming, sanding and repeat.

They are also going to do the cockpit interior. Things are progressing, slowly.
[attachment=2994:PaintShop.JPG]

For a little bit of Ford-Cosworth porn...
[attachment=2993:EngineCompartment.JPG]

Yes, it fits quite nicely. Can hardly wait to get it on the road.
-PaPiTo Paul

Leebay



LDS Engineering.co.uk

Cylinder head Repairs/skimming, Engine|Brake|Suspension|Service components, Number/show plates & Custom stickers.

snoopaloopa

#21
I think its going to be stunning when you've finished it, good work

PaPiTo Paul

It has been awhile. I do most of my updates to my blog http://papito-paul.blogspot.com/]http://papito-paul.blogspot.com/
Did a little test the other day involving the 24V, and a wine glass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLs0FkFjGVk&feature=player_embedded]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLs0FkFjGVk

Now researching ECU. I have a BABY ECU and it is definitely running too rich. I sent a note off to Emerald, but have not received a reply yet. I have been following tweecer for quite awhile, and I am encouraged by the progress in another thread. Megasquirt could be another option. Plugs are black instead of a nice grey. I have only driven it about 20 miles so far and have gone through about 1/8th of a 17.5 (US) gallon tank of fuel. Maybe punching it in 2nd gear and laying a patch of rubber has something to do with it.  

The BABY ECU should be learning, but it is probably getting confused by the lack of sufficient back pressure. Any suggestions on getting better economy other than the ECU?

Oil pressure good, temperature stays at 150F, which seems cold to me. What should the operating temperature be?

-PaPiTo Paul

capri v8 driver

give the exhaust back pressure. temp should be around 200 F. now its to low, witch also contributes to a higher fuel consumption.

as for the tweecer, Mike Glover from Tweecer is working on that.
greetz Paul.

Capri V8 Driver.

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: capri v8 drivergive the exhaust back pressure. temp should be around 200 F. now its to low, witch also contributes to a higher fuel consumption.

as for the tweecer, Mike Glover from Tweecer is working on that.
Thanks, Paul

How to measure back pressure? How much is enough or too little?
I checked the HEGOs, and they were loose, 1/2 turn finger tight, then tightened them down with a wrench as far as they would go, then gave them a quarter turn more. (Not really, just tight).
I will have to pull the thermostat, put in a pot with water and heat with a thermometer to check the operation.

I got a note back from Emerald. They have the K6 model available now. They have quite a bit of experience with the Ford-Cosworth engines, and they have a guy here in Florida that can do the final tune. So I am leaning toward the Emerald rather than the tweecer.
-PaPiTo Paul

capri v8 driver

most use a 45 mm restriction in the down pipe or use the stock down pipes, witch are 42 mm inside.

i dont know if you use a single or dual exhaust. just dont go to big. 55 mm for a single or 50 mm for a dual exhaust is enough.

lose hego's are also not so good for the fuel consumption. but the water temp is to low. that needs to be addressed first.

as for the ecu, the stock ecu is a very relaible ecu and with stock or near stock engines it works very good. with a tweecer, it will solve the most "problems" like timing and fueling.

Emerald is very good and gives you more freedom if you want to do performance upgrades to the engine.

both ways have there con and pro's.
greetz Paul.

Capri V8 Driver.

PaPiTo Paul

Quote from: capri v8 drivermost use a 45 mm restriction in the down pipe or use the stock down pipes, witch are 42 mm inside.

i dont know if you use a single or dual exhaust. just dont go to big. 55 mm for a single or 50 mm for a dual exhaust is enough.
[attachment=3189:DSCN2008.JPG]
Dual exhaust. There is no restriction in the down pipes that I am aware of. The pipes are 2 inch (50.8 mm). As you can see it is pretty straight. No cats. The mufflers are straight through, but with a smaller pipe inside that has a plate welded at the rear, that would block the exhaust completely, then a bunch of holes in that pipe to divert the exhaust into the muffler. I had this done to make it a bit quieter. It was really loud, could not hear the radio at full volume.
-PaPiTo Paul

PaPiTo Paul

Six months up on blocks hassling with the rear axle. Back on the road again. I took her out for a test drive the other day, and I am impressed with the Cosworth engine. Very good low end torque. Does not buck or seem loaded down doing 20 MPH in 5th gear.
I topped off the tank and getting 15-16 MPG, about the same as the Jaguar engine. I need to take a bit longer road trip to see what the mileage is with the gas pedal not all the way to the floor.
Video of test drive 1 minute http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FYUdhTK7s8&feature=player_embedded
Blog http://papito-paul.blogspot.com/
-PaPiTo Paul

mk2 cossie

sounds bloody good in the youtube link  ;D

Lemon-Ade

That's what I thought too  ;)  Awesome  :mellow:

Run in ......

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