My Twin Turbo

TimoXr4i · October 07, 2012, 22:12:27

Ive got me a single t3, so, i would need a single dumpvalve i think, got the afms, and would like to use a recirc one, to aid the spool a bit, but whats a good place to fit? If i see the construction jfb tech uses, it looks good, but how does it exactly work? Im planning to fabricate a y piece to get from my ic to the throttle, and use a similar y piece for my inlet, fit the afms and airfilters on that and connect the single tube to the turbo, and go to the ic on that manner. If i fit the dumpvalve on the single tube from the y piece just in front of the throttle, would that be enough? And what vacuum would i need for the "steering", just a hose from my manifold, maybe the one i gonna use for my mapsensor to? Dont have a mapsensor on my 2.8 efi inlet, so i need to fab me something to. Dont think i need any vacuum lines for anything else, i use a abs brakepump, so, really cant think of any more vacuum pipes i need!

T4T · October 07, 2012, 23:16:03

Forgot to mention , I had my props back from Firow .
Thanks littlegems , they have done a good job including new rear prop centre bearing , bushing and housing .
They have fitted grease nipples to the front prop as well .

Cheers
Matt

JFB Tech · October 08, 2012, 00:03:58

Quote from: TimoXr4i on October 07, 2012, 22:12:27
Ive got me a single t3, so, i would need a single dumpvalve i think, got the afms, and would like to use a recirc one, to aid the spool a bit, but whats a good place to fit? If i see the construction jfb tech uses, it looks good, but how does it exactly work? Im planning to fabricate a y piece to get from my ic to the throttle, and use a similar y piece for my inlet, fit the afms and airfilters on that and connect the single tube to the turbo, and go to the ic on that manner. If i fit the dumpvalve on the single tube from the y piece just in front of the throttle, would that be enough? And what vacuum would i need for the "steering", just a hose from my manifold, maybe the one i gonna use for my mapsensor to? Dont have a mapsensor on my 2.8 efi inlet, so i need to fab me something to. Dont think i need any vacuum lines for anything else, i use a abs brakepump, so, really cant think of any more vacuum pipes i need!

I would do it as you say Timo, Y piece from both your AFMs into the turbo inlet along with a Tee in for the dump valve outlet. Tee into the Y piece before your throttle to mount the dump valve and take a vacuum line from your inlet manifold. There may be a vacuum tapping on the throttle you can use. It's best not to Tee into the vacuum line for the MAP sensor, that's best with it's own dedicated line. The beauty of recirculating dump valve on cars using AFMs is that all the air going through the AFMs is consumed by the engine. If you dump to atmosphere, the AFMs see a lot more airflow than the engine gets when the throttle is closed. This is likely to upset the fuelling, making it very rich.

TimoXr4i · October 08, 2012, 20:54:34

So, my idea was quite okay, but, where to go with the recirculated air? In the compressor, or just behind it? If it needs to go infront, i can make both y pieces with an extra in/outlet, so they can be the same, if it needs to go behind the compressor ill have to create something else

T4T · October 08, 2012, 23:08:01

Timo , if recirc dump valve , you go between air filter and compressor .
Cheers
Matt

robrs2 · October 09, 2012, 06:13:27

Recirc dumpvalve needs to go from the turbo outlet back to its inlet or you can go from the intercooler outlet back to the turbo inlet as the air will have been cooled from the intercooler.

TimoXr4i · October 09, 2012, 12:05:20

Iirc ive got a outlet on the intercooler, so, saves me from making one on a y piece!

T4T · October 09, 2012, 18:31:04

Finally after waiting what seems an age , I have a gearkit winging it's way from Sweden .

I was starting to think the gearbox was going to be a major hold up .
Hopefully D.O.M.E can get the gearbox ready for beginning of November !

Last remaining major hurdles after this are now exhaust and mapping .
Getting closer .

Question :
I'm using Omex 710 ecu . With something as advanced as this what gauges should I be considering for inside the car ?
Instrument cluster obviously already has water temp .
So additionally I'm thinking just oil temp/pressure combined and boost .

Is there any advantage to extra's ?
Volts , Lambda , EGT , Fuel pressure , others ?

Please discuss .

Matt

Dave · October 09, 2012, 22:13:25

AFR, boost, oil pressure, oil temp & gearbox temp is always nice to know so recommend them as permenant.

Rest are only useful in mapping or problem solving.

For mapping you need a proper coolant temp read out, fuel pressure, AFR & boost.

Nice to know EGT's but they are so over rated & of little use to be honest except for problem solving.

T4T · October 24, 2012, 16:55:05

Haven't been able to post for a while , changing ISP .

Gearkit arrived 10 days ago and is now with Dome/Bara to be built into the box .

[attachment=1]

I wasn't able to find a 3.14 front crownwheel/pinion so step off gears have to be made
for the transfer box to "create" the front ratio .
Also because the gearkit is designed for a cossie , the input shaft needs modding to suit the cologne .

I thought the kit would come with the appropriate shaft , as I ordered for an xr4x4 , but no .

Now I know there is no such thing as unbreakable , but hopefully the geartrain will now take the strain .

Oh yeah , first gear missing in the pic as they forgot it !!

Matt

T4T · October 24, 2012, 17:08:30

Ah yes , gauges .

Yeah Dave , that's pretty much what my engine guy said .

Any comments on Racetech's range as engine guy thinks they are good .

He has also suggested an Innovate afr display .

The reason I'm asking is I want as few as possible .

I don't really want to lose the centre air vents like many owners need to do to fit additional gauges .

Cheers

Matt

JFB Tech · October 24, 2012, 21:15:58

I have added the following gauges/indicators.

Upper centre panel (where clock and aux warning panel were) fuel pressure, Vems Round AFR & EGT, boost, oil pressure, oil temp.

Upper Din slot (audio moved to lower Din slot) ACT, low fuel & screenwash lamps, battery Voltage, Knock Link, aux warning panel.

They are all removable to return to standard if needed.

Lemon-Ade · October 25, 2012, 08:55:46

I have racetech too nice plain looking. I have innovate lc1 for the ecu so you can view it on the laptop or a gauge just fitted aem in Ollies frs and its very tidy.

T4T · October 26, 2012, 14:50:30

I like the plain look of the racetech gauges too .
I'm trying not to change the look of the dash too much .

So I'm thinking combined engine oil temp/pressure + gearbox oil temp in dash where I have the old gauges in pic .
[attachment=1]

Then AFR and boost gauges in an A pillar pod .
[attachment=2]

capri v8 driver · October 26, 2012, 19:31:09

I use a a/f meter with a selector switch for left and right and a oil temp gauge with a selector switch for the engine oil and gearbox.

T4T · October 29, 2012, 00:35:39

Finally fitted the new petrol tank today after having it in the house for 7 years

Has anyone running serious suspension managed to keep the inertia switch without running into problems ?
I'm expecting that stiff coilovers and rosejoints everywhere are probably going to set it off .

I was thinking of ditching it and just having a toggle switch where the cigarette lighter was .

p.s. I like the idea of switching inputs Paul , I'll have a look at that for the afr .

Matt

JFB Tech · October 29, 2012, 21:09:42

If you use wideband sensors then you need to make sure you keep them both powered when the engine is running. Without power, they will foul in a matter of seconds and need to be replaced. I lost the power to my AFR gauge and killed the lambda sensor within about 30 seconds of starting the engine.

capri v8 driver · October 29, 2012, 22:14:38

Quote from: JFB Tech on October 29, 2012, 21:09:42
If you use wideband sensors then you need to make sure you keep them both powered when the engine is running. Without power, they will foul in a matter of seconds and need to be replaced. I lost the power to my AFR gauge and killed the lambda sensor within about 30 seconds of starting the engine.

Yes you need to keep them powerd, you only switch the signal.

Dave · October 31, 2012, 14:06:55

Yeah I do similar.

The engine & gearbox temps are on the same gauge just use a toggle switch between the two as both have the same sender.
Then I have a boost & oil pressure gauge.

When mapping/testing I use a laptop to record/show all sorts of things from engine sump pressures to down force generated at speed.

Only when mapping do I monitor various EGT points, left/right AFR, boost, sump pressure, coolant, intake temps, back pressure, TPS & ambient air temp.

T4T · November 04, 2012, 09:25:15

Spoken to Dennis at Dome on Friday and fingers crossed he'll be in touch this week to say the gearbox is ready !
The box is already built up with the Fixit gearkit , he's just waiting for the step off gears to arrive .
I would have preferred to find a front crownwheel/pinion in 3.14 as they appear to be stronger than the std (Geoff Kershaw never having broken one ) but I couldn't .

I didn't mention before that when the gears arrived there was a little dink in the synchro cone on one of the gears but Bara have managed to sort that thankfully ,
without me having to wait for a new gear to arrive .
Improved breathing has been sorted for the box with a small bottle that will fix to the engine bay bulkhead .

Fitting an oil cooler , they use the drain plug aperture for getting the oil out and a plate that fits where the reversing light switch is , to return .
I'll get some photos up when it's back in my possession .

Bad news is that my engine guy moved into bigger premises a few months ago and this has led him to delay things slightly because the move has caused more of a backlog than anticipated .
I think the engine will be in the car by the end of November but this will make it difficult to complete by Christmas .

"Has anyone running serious suspension managed to keep the inertia switch without running into problems ?
I'm expecting that stiff coilovers and rosejoints everywhere are probably going to set it off .

I was thinking of ditching it and just having a toggle switch where the cigarette lighter was ."

Has anyone experience of this ?

Matt

Lemon-Ade · November 04, 2012, 10:41:56

Nice update Matt , with your engine guy as my mum would say " good things come to those who wait " it will be worth it I'm sure. I have 17" rims coil overs with rose jointed tcas polys ally beam mounts and msd diff mount and it seems fine harshness wise. But mine isn't anywhere as track orientated as yours, personally I would ditch it and do as you say. If the engine stops the ecu should cut the earth to the relay in a few seconds.
Cheers ade

T4T · November 04, 2012, 13:30:52

Ade , I've seen on your project thread that you are selling your 3.14 rear diff .
Once I have the bill from Dennis I'll post how much it costs to create the matching front diff ratio for all those interested in the longer ratio ,
seeing as the front cw/pinion are very elusive !

Yeah , I can't picture the switch coping with british road surfaces with all the suspension mods .

Matt

T4T · November 04, 2012, 13:38:04

Pictures speak a thousand words so this is why you want a 6 degree beam .

[attachment=1]

T4T · November 04, 2012, 13:44:36

[attachment=1]

The coilovers limit the wheel travel rather a lot but the picture is at full droop .

As you can see though the wheel has a lot less camber and toe change than standard throughout the limits of travel .

Matt

Lemon-Ade · November 04, 2012, 18:28:15

That would be great Matt. The beam is on my wish list, defo need one but its a rolling list maybe next year.... Lol

turboshed · November 20, 2012, 00:45:17

kept my interia switch in and it has never gone off,hit some pretty big potholes in my time aswell as many a track kerb.its has only gone off when I drop a spare tyre in the boot.

T4T · November 21, 2012, 05:38:49

Thanks for that turboshed .
I remember reading somewhere you have a pretty stiff setup too .
Do you still have bushes/poly's , or are you rosejointed as well ?

Cheers
Matt

Dave · November 21, 2012, 23:38:06

Must agree can't see you having trouble with the inertia switch as it needs a real good bang for it to trip.

TimoXr4i · November 22, 2012, 11:46:39

Doesnt need that much, i drove in a parkingspot the other day, slightly up a little curb, and i didnt steer well, making the bottom of the car hitting the floor, dead in a second, running in a few minutes, but it went of pretty fast...

T4T · November 22, 2012, 20:24:07

Differing opinions here !
I reckon I'll take it out - my worry is to pull out and overtake someone , hit a pothole and have the engine stop while
I'm on the wrong side of the road . I'm guessing the engine would run lean as well briefly , while boosting -not good .

Matt