Looks so much beter then the rust.   

 

Been a bit quiet. Had some stuff to do on the Sierra.
Now started to fix the doors

Quote from: Jaanus on September 16, 2025, 00:49:23 Hve to be more mindful about the weather, when others need to use the lift and this needs to go outside for a moment

I shared a garage with a friend a long time ago and a shared garage does have these kind of disadvantage. Like missing tools ect. Lucky me, the garage next to it came available and i could have it and still bin there for 30 years now. But now looking for a house with a garage.

Since the car is without paint and bondo i would look into tinning the bodywork especially the weld seams. It prevents water into the seams, so no rust and no more cracking bondo due flex and stress in the metal. Yes its not cheap or easy but when done right it saves you a lot of frustration and work in the future. And use a epoxy primer as a first coat. Epoxy primer does not absorb water like other primers and bondo do and therefor protecting the metal much beter against rust.

 

Already thought of the drain.

I've had to push it outside twice while it rained(not even much). Not good   
Hve to be more mindful about the weather, when others need to use the lift and this needs to go outside for a moment


Just trying not to paint it and then have to grind paint off next week 
Some parts i think i wont be touching again have gotten a coat

Looking good. Nice work.

I would advice to make drain holes in the buckets and use a epoxy primer and a good seam sealer before painting as parts like the headlight buckets and rockers will see a lot of water.

Would be a shame to re-do all your hard work. Why am i saying this? well i did this for the last week and this is just 1 side of the car:





while i taught that just welding and bondo could keep water out the seams of the rear panels the bondo cracked (after some hit it) and let water in. Now i had to take it back to bare metal, cut and reweld the seams and start over. This time i tinned and leaded the seams.  Something i should have done in the first place the first time but didn't do due time constrains.

Looks very good!

For the lights i use E30 head lights with Osram LED bulbs in the 20M and for my black Capri V8. Not cheap as you need 2 sets of LED bulbs witch are 100 euros a set but the view on the road at night is superieur to the old lights. I can say its one of the best upgrades you can do to these old head lights.

Yep, coilovers are the way if keeping the Capri towers with adjustable camberplates

old headlight buckets:


CAD template




Testing making the hole for changing bulbs etc.


And in the correct piece



Both sides done. On to making the rest of it next time

Quote from: Jaanus on August 31, 2025, 15:26:36 Tops of Capri towers are fairly flat and small compared to bmw:

However the bearing top plates are still flat and around the same dimensions as a Capri. I was planning to use BMW top bearing plates on my 20M as its hard/pricy to find original 20M replacements. In the end i found 2 new 20m top bearing plates. 

I checked with my Polish visitor. The BMW springs and spring plate are bigger in size and offset to the damper so that will complicate things. Coilovers is the best way to go to gain clearance. In that case i would replace the stock dampers for adjustable ones.